It's probably a little early for me to post this message, because I haven't removed the front faring to collect all the voltage measurements I need, but my basic problem is that, according to the voltmeter, my 1993 FLHTC is having a hard time keeping the voltage in the 12V to 13V range. The battery is new, and I keep it charged with a tender, so I don't believe that's the problem. The behavior is somewhat random, also. For example, the voltage isn't always low while idling, sometimes it is. Today it was low enough that the turn signals didn't work. When I did some troubleshooting of this problem last year (this is an annoyance that I've learned to live with), it looked like the voltage drop across the ignition switch was excessive, but I didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing it if it was just a red herring and not the real problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check the connection at the stator plug. Know bad design by The MoCo....

 

Yeah, that is a crappy connector. It's surprisingly easy to pull off. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

 

I re-seated the stator plug connector a couple of times and that definitely had an effect, although the indicated voltage still varies quite a bit. However, now it we mostly in the 13V range while riding at speed.

 

Check what your voltage is with a volt meter connected to your battery posts.
Don't trust the Harley gauge.

 

That was the better plug coming from the stator comes thru the case start the bike up with the reg plug removed set the meter to AC volts at 2000 rpm tach the meter should read 40 AC volt + or - then the stator is OK Go back to the bat (at 2000 rpm ) the bat should read 13.5 volts DC

 

Refer to Dr Hess's Sticky at the head of this Evo section on your charging circuit, which will help identify if you have any underlying problems. That may lead you to that crankcase plug, but do the diagnosis first.

 

My gauge reads a constant full volt less than actual voltage at battery. Once you have verified that it's no longer a concern.


Gauge even drops a volt every cycle of the blinkers still. I just live with it. I recently added an extra ground cable to the battery. Wanting to replace the original one which I can see is somewhat corroded. Got what I thought was the right P/N from a microphiche for both + and - cables. The cables that arrived were much too short so I put ground one on anyways connected to the frame. That helped my gauge read more consistent across the board. So when bike is running now I have steady +13v showing on gauge which is an actual +14v at battery. Happy with that.


I still want to replace the originals but the oem ones are obsolete. So I will need to get creative and measure out the exact length I need and find em somewhere, or make em.