'91 FLHTCU - my little problems
#11
It is not unusual for them to not charge at idle. If you pass the tests in the sticky, particularly the voltage AT THE BATTERY at around 1500-2K RPM, your charging system is fine. Do you have the auto-cancel version of the blinkers or the old kind that you push on and hold? If it is the old kind, you can get a modern solid state blinker at any auto parts store and solve that problem.
Don't be too worried about the voltage on the dash gauge. You have to go by what's at the battery.
Don't be too worried about the voltage on the dash gauge. You have to go by what's at the battery.
Also check your connection at the stator. Mine was very loose and did not have great connection. Even fell off a few times before I put on a bracket from ebay to hold it in place.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REGULATOR-RE...item3f6430f746
Front end is smooth. So I suggest you have your wheel checked for balance again. Possible bent rim? Maybe bearings need to be replaced? Sounds like it has sat most of it's life. All grease should be attended to and freshened up.
OH and WELCOME to the forum!
Last edited by DeputyLoud; 06-08-2016 at 07:20 AM.
#12
My main problem at the moment is the voltage. Even with the new battery, fully charged, the voltage drops while ideling at every stop. It wouldn't concern me that much, but the turn signals won't work, as long as the voltage is under 12V. I have to pull the throttle, to get the voltage up. Then I can turn on the signal, as soon as the voltage drops the neutral lamp and the turnsignal lamp in the dash beginn to flicker.
I already did the guide that is a sticky here, all seems well. Any ideas what I can do? new regulator, new stator, maybe the bigger ones from cycle electric?
I already did the guide that is a sticky here, all seems well. Any ideas what I can do? new regulator, new stator, maybe the bigger ones from cycle electric?
If you went through the sticky and everything checks out, then the regulator and stator should be fine. In any case, your turn signals should work correctly even at "low" voltage.
I discovered something during my recent handlebar swap that may be relevant here. After I got the bars wired up and installed, but still had the headlamp/spotlamp/front turn signal assembly off the bike, I tested the turn signals to verify my wiring. What I noticed was that they would come on (meaning the rear turn signal lamps and the dash indicators), but would not blink.
This is on a 1990 FLHTC, so I'm guessing we have the same setup.
My advice is that the next thing you could do is open up the batwing and give the wiring a good going over. It's a miserable chore of a job. There are more wires stuffed in there than you can imagine. But since you said your mechanic replaced the speedo, that means he was in there recently, and it's possible that something was jarred loose.
Did your guy replace the whole instrument "pod" as a unit, or did he open it up and just replace the speedometer? Either way, if the trouble persists after you clean and inspect the connections in the batwing, I'm guessing your trouble lies inside the instrument pod, probably just a loose/bad connector.
#14
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