I had long since installed the (actually a good used ones)new pads but still that pesky prob from last time I posted about it still remains. Hmmm...

Here are the pics( beware they are a little dark)

This is the left side. If you look closely you can see the caliper resting on the rotor.


Right side seems ok beside the small clearance(looks like 1/8in) between rotor and caliper



As I stated in other thread I plan on rebuilding master cylinder and hops that fixes but not holding my breath too much.

 

Master cylinder may need rebuilding but that is not the problem here, this is a clearance issue, check for shims behind bolts or caliper, measure fork legs. check for clearance or bent tabs, etc. something is wrong in that area...need to find the problem first. Do you have front brakes now?

 

You might try putting a .020"-.030" shim between the pad and rotor and bleed your brake. That should position the piston a little deeper in the caliper. Trick an old school indy taught me to keep the pad from dragging.

 

yeah but they work too good. It doesn't take but a feathers touch to get them to work but that cause I had to shim the brake lever and the master cylinder plunger. Other than that the caliper works.


Should the right side be of concern with the clearance only being 1/8?

 

Ok, I wouldn't mess with the master cylinder just yet. Need to get that caliper aligned and I'm guessing that your grabby brakes will even out.

 

Besides what Lakerat said got anymore ideas on what to do? However wouldn't shimming up between the pads and caliper cause the pads to butt up on the rotor?

 

When you installed the pads did you grease the caliper pins? The caliper should move freely on the pins and may be binding on one or the other causing a twist, and Lakerat's idea will give you clearance.

 

Nope didnt grease them. The caliper on rotor issue has been going on since I got the dang thing. But it an idea to try.

I bet you $2 that the front forks aren't the ones that was made with the bike. My suspicion come from the fact the fork lock doesn't match the ones in pics I've seen for the FLHT. The fork lock which is suppose to turn the bike on and it doesn't do that. To turn the bike on I have to flip a switch. So I suspect at some point the forks was changed.

 

Fork legs may be something to check also, but the caliper looks cocked, not square with the rotor, could be a high spot on one of the tabs, does the pin slide in and out easily. Or the bracket that bolts to the leg could be bent or out of line, are the little metal (between caliper and bracket) spacer/sliders there as they line things up also....just some things to look for in diagnosing this.

 

Have you put a straight edge across the rotor to make sure it's flat?