pistons
#121
#122
#123
I think the only thing I own that hasn't been fugged with is the leaf blower,,wait,,, yea the leaf blower is totally stock.
#124
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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I remember one episode where he hooked up a chevy 350 to a garbage disposal!!!!
#125
It's a shame you could not post without barbing it with insults, distractions and avoiding the substantive issues, John.
My response ... who do think make the V-Factor pistons Mid-USA sell, and why "need"? Did we established he actually needs them? You're taking out some German Malhes good enough to do 100,000 miles, and sticking in some Taiwanese items, as I mentioned above ... but at what price?
You're starting with a sloppy job, and then apply some expensive bandaids afterwards, just as I predicted ... "buy the Mikuni ... buy the ignition" ... at what price?
I'd say, "do the first part of the job properly and it'll make more power and run better all round". You may not need bandaid A and B, and you'll certainly beat them on the dyno. (John was honest about that).
As stripping, bore and cutting and reassembly (gaskets) are costly and time consuming ventures, Glide, or any other buyer, needs sit down and make two tables of alternative costs; and not be sucked into panic buying or slick sales.
The stripping, bore and cutting and reassembly are going to be the same; so what difference the 'budget bandaid tune', and the 'high quality tune'? I would say even an average rider could tell the difference in feel and performance.
There's no cut and paste in anything I've written. That's just more FUD salesmanship.
The way it works is that the EV27 is such a good money shot on its own, shops can get away without having done anything else (properly or skillfully) and still appear like miracle workers. Ditto bolting on a Mikuni.
• Don't buy anything until you know (you or someone has measured) what you've got.
--
On a happier note, I was looking at some of the available tooling suitable for home or enthusiast use and came across Lindy In-Head Piston Cutters. Remember what I wrote about fixing up a cutter using an old valve, or using clamps off a counter sinker to measure/machine the lift accurately enough ... well, an old school hotrodder has put it all together for you already. I really like their stuff (given we're using the same 5/16" valve stems, there's loads of stuff out there from the auto world).
By using the valve guides in the head as a jig, you can cut or enlarge your piston pockets exactly where you need them. Anyone who can hold a drill, could do it.
My response ... who do think make the V-Factor pistons Mid-USA sell, and why "need"? Did we established he actually needs them? You're taking out some German Malhes good enough to do 100,000 miles, and sticking in some Taiwanese items, as I mentioned above ... but at what price?
You're starting with a sloppy job, and then apply some expensive bandaids afterwards, just as I predicted ... "buy the Mikuni ... buy the ignition" ... at what price?
I'd say, "do the first part of the job properly and it'll make more power and run better all round". You may not need bandaid A and B, and you'll certainly beat them on the dyno. (John was honest about that).
As stripping, bore and cutting and reassembly (gaskets) are costly and time consuming ventures, Glide, or any other buyer, needs sit down and make two tables of alternative costs; and not be sucked into panic buying or slick sales.
The stripping, bore and cutting and reassembly are going to be the same; so what difference the 'budget bandaid tune', and the 'high quality tune'? I would say even an average rider could tell the difference in feel and performance.
There's no cut and paste in anything I've written. That's just more FUD salesmanship.
The way it works is that the EV27 is such a good money shot on its own, shops can get away without having done anything else (properly or skillfully) and still appear like miracle workers. Ditto bolting on a Mikuni.
• Don't buy anything until you know (you or someone has measured) what you've got.
--
On a happier note, I was looking at some of the available tooling suitable for home or enthusiast use and came across Lindy In-Head Piston Cutters. Remember what I wrote about fixing up a cutter using an old valve, or using clamps off a counter sinker to measure/machine the lift accurately enough ... well, an old school hotrodder has put it all together for you already. I really like their stuff (given we're using the same 5/16" valve stems, there's loads of stuff out there from the auto world).
By using the valve guides in the head as a jig, you can cut or enlarge your piston pockets exactly where you need them. Anyone who can hold a drill, could do it.
Last edited by Big Member; 01-01-2016 at 04:58 PM.
#126
I am sure you can 2+2 the two together. All you need are the usual roll of duct tape and some rivets.
Or you can buy a Harley branded from John at $450.
Last edited by Big Member; 01-01-2016 at 05:04 PM.
#127
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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Hey, I've got a really good hack that turns a leaf blower into a directional bike dryer ...! Keep your eyes open for an old broken vacuum cleaner with its hose still attached.
I am sure you can 2+2 the two together. All you need are the usual roll of duct tape and some rivets.
Or you can buy a Harley branded from John at $450.
I am sure you can 2+2 the two together. All you need are the usual roll of duct tape and some rivets.
Or you can buy a Harley branded from John at $450.
2: I would tell you how much of a good bastard John is but I don't want to embarrass him on the forum....he TOTALLY KNOWS HIS ****!!!!
3: Stop being such a Big Dick...you ain't making any friends on here...just sayin'....
#128
#130
If it's a choice between accuracy and consumer commonsense, or joining you guys' circle jerk ... I'll take - and promote - accuracy and consumer commonsense. I've never sucked 50 or 60 year old d*** and I'm unlikely to start now.
I didn't start by lowering the conversation to name calling. I merely questioned some technical inaccuracy, or ommission.
It seems some people can't cope with that and prefer to make a grand kerfuffle, turning things into a personal issue which only distracts from more valuable conversation.
It turns out it was nothing to do with the clearances per se, nor scenario the original poster is/was concerned about (thinking about it, perhaps it more to do with issues relating to the quality of the early lifters ... which, if the OP also still has them, we would be better off discussing and bring into the equation at this point too).
See, I'm still thinking of the OP while you are thinking of your own selves and egos and turning this into a drama.
Spanners, have you actually followed this discussion from the beginning, or have you just joined now to fluff John up and give him a hand? Because I don't see any value in your contribution.
OK, back to the serious stuff ... what to spend, and how to make the best decision of how and where to spend it in order to get the best return. If you don't have a good plan from the beginning, it's easy to make bad decisions which will end up costing you more, to miss good opportunitues, or even lead you in a black hole.
Like I said, as the cost of the required services and consumables are the same and considerable which ever path you choose, it's worth making a couple of list, or sticking them into a simple one column spreadsheet, and seeing how they stack up.
On one hand, the cost between a 'pedestrian job', as John is suggesting, and a really good one may actually not be any different, or at least so little different that it would be pushing for; and, on the other hand, if you want to stick with a 'pedestrian job', then it should be possible to achieve it more cheaply ... without lining yourself for lost opportunities or even greater expenses later.
Those are the facts. They may not endear me to the circle jerk ... but they are based on good logic and methodology.
I didn't start by lowering the conversation to name calling. I merely questioned some technical inaccuracy, or ommission.
It seems some people can't cope with that and prefer to make a grand kerfuffle, turning things into a personal issue which only distracts from more valuable conversation.
It turns out it was nothing to do with the clearances per se, nor scenario the original poster is/was concerned about (thinking about it, perhaps it more to do with issues relating to the quality of the early lifters ... which, if the OP also still has them, we would be better off discussing and bring into the equation at this point too).
See, I'm still thinking of the OP while you are thinking of your own selves and egos and turning this into a drama.
Spanners, have you actually followed this discussion from the beginning, or have you just joined now to fluff John up and give him a hand? Because I don't see any value in your contribution.
OK, back to the serious stuff ... what to spend, and how to make the best decision of how and where to spend it in order to get the best return. If you don't have a good plan from the beginning, it's easy to make bad decisions which will end up costing you more, to miss good opportunitues, or even lead you in a black hole.
Like I said, as the cost of the required services and consumables are the same and considerable which ever path you choose, it's worth making a couple of list, or sticking them into a simple one column spreadsheet, and seeing how they stack up.
On one hand, the cost between a 'pedestrian job', as John is suggesting, and a really good one may actually not be any different, or at least so little different that it would be pushing for; and, on the other hand, if you want to stick with a 'pedestrian job', then it should be possible to achieve it more cheaply ... without lining yourself for lost opportunities or even greater expenses later.
Those are the facts. They may not endear me to the circle jerk ... but they are based on good logic and methodology.