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Weird electrical gremlin

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Old 10-26-2015, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by portlandron
If you have circuit breakers I ran into the same problem on my 1998 Softail. The circuit breakers are all the same. Try switching them. Solved the problem for me so I just got some new ones and replaced it.

Thanks for the info, il give them a swap round
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by falconbrother
Also check the connector that contains the white wire that comes out of the coil. Take that connector apart and clean it good, use some dielectric grease and see if that fixes it.

Thanks, I will take your advice and go through all the connections again
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:49 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks everyone who took the trouble to give advice to me.
In between work the weather and keeping my grandson occupied I will hopefully have put it all to good use and get to the bottom of the problem.

Thanks again
 
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:55 AM
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Had a similar issue with my 98 evo last summer. Turned out that one of the nuts that holds the terminal to the circuit breaker on the back fender splash guard had loosed up and allowed the wire to have a weak connection. This would explain why you have enough power for the dash lights but not enough to start. If you go to replace the breaker you will catch the problem if that is it. I went to replace it and realized the wire was loose and arcing. Good Luck!
 
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:39 PM
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OP - If you have never serviced the Ignition Switch, do it!
Take it apart and clean the crap off the underside with DeOxit and apply some dielectric grease to keep it lubed.
This may not be your problem now, but it will be in the future if not maintained.
 
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Fatboy1389
OP - If you have never serviced the Ignition Switch, do it!
Take it apart and clean the crap off the underside with DeOxit and apply some dielectric grease to keep it lubed.
This may not be your problem now, but it will be in the future if not maintained.
Similar thing happened to me on my 1995 RK and it was the console ignition switch. Here are instructions and pics on how to take it apart and clean it. Works like a charm after cleaning.

Here is a good how-to from my friend Gordon on the hsoa forum.

Originally Posted by gtmalone
HSOA TECH TIPS


1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch.

2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE

2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.

2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.

2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.

2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.

2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.

2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.

2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.

2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.

2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.

2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.

At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.

2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.

2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.

3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE

3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.

3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.

3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.

3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.

3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.

3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.

3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.

3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.

3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.

3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.

3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.


Links to figures:

IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES

 
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