I appreciate all that. I was just interested because in comparison to the Axtell 97 kit I have heard nothing about this kit at all. Nothing good or bad. I have not heard of anyone having problems with the Axtell.

I've seen talk that the iron cylinders hold liners straight better than alloy and that some cheap alloy cylinders distort or come distorted, but nothing about re-using the stock ones.

I like the sleeper element of this kit.

Boring to 3.900" would leave about .150" to .200" (4 to 5mm) on the case wall at its thinnest but there's plenty of meat around the rest.

What dimensions do you need to bore to for the 3-5/8" bore S&S Sidewinder big bore kit? S&S say
And that's fitting Shovel and Pans too.

The difference is between 3.879" and 3.900" is 21 thou or half a mm.

Would that be a critical weakness?

 

duplicate - delete

 

You can have a sleeper with a stroker crankshaft, which bolts straight in with no/minimal machining required! That's a well proven upgrade which some of us have experience with.......

 

Why? It's all just down to money, to be honest.

I can do much of the work myself, according to S&S boring out the cases is less than an hours work with the right jigs (they actually say half an hour).

And I'm just interested in this kit as I had not heard of it before.

Speaking to shops, I find they have a tendency to push what they have used before/is easiest/make best profit the most.

Strangely, no one seems to know about this kit.

 

wouldnt do it with a stock crank, especially going for 100+ hp/tq

i twisted mine, destroyed the engine in the process (rod bearing disintegrated, pistons hit the heads, flywheels hit the cases, basically destroyed everything south of the head gaskets...heads are salvageable as they were never cut, and saving them for a later evo project (we all want second/third bikes)

long story short: isn't worth it unless you wanna do something no one else did (and no one else does it because it isn't cost effective).

parts are gonna cost you $2-3k easy, another grand in machine work wouldnt be tough to imagine. whats the point, when for $5k you can get a 111/113 from S&S with a 2 year warranty.....and have the same (or more) power.

 

I had no specific power aims, I figured I'd be getting less than an 1hp per cube therefore I had reckoned on an modest 80 - 85 hp max. Thought a more square engine might rev a little more quickly and it be cheap.

How much is the standard crank recommend for? Is it worth welding up while it is out?

Mine's relative new. It was redone may be 8,000 miles ago by the previous owner. But unfortunately just stock.

Now that guy was crazy IMO ... he bombed his engine, or ran out of oil, and then went to a official dealership to have it all built back to stock, using only stock H-D parts. Not a single piece of S&S, not even a breather or Torrington bearing.

 

You don't really weld Evo cranks... these are not TC's.

 

What is the weak point to look out for.

I've never heard of engine bombing in the way described above but most people I know ride stock or TCs now.

 

sometimes, it happens.

I was told in ~ '95 or so, harley stopped "hand building" cranks, and instead spec'd all parts to be within .0005" tolerances....so that way the total allowable tolerance between all parts would be within their original spec.

my crank twisted, and wiped out the rod bearing on the rear cylinder....why? Im not 100% sure. I will say that after I split the cases, I was able to break the crankpin nut loose with a 3/8 ratchet (not in a jig, not clamped). seeing as its SUPPOSED to be torqued to something like 350lb/ft, I have a feeling something loosened up.


prior to the failure, the bottom end on this bike has NEVER been apart (had no reason to)....**** just happens sometimes.