93 FLHS Enrichment cable cable???
#1
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1993 FLHS with 70,000 miles idles at 3000 rpm with enrichment cable on all the way, never used too. Put it at half way idles rough at 1500 rpm and coughing. Even when warm outside need cable on to keep running until engine is warm. Tried adjusting cable to manual specs but no change. Cleaned carb with spray cleaner outside and in while running, no change. Any ideas that I am missing before I totally rebuild carb again?? Getting tired of this but trying for 100,000 before top end is rebuilt. Runs strong and fine at 70, 80 mph all day long once warm. Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
#2
#3
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Had carb off today rubber ring to manifold is ok. I will check o-ring in choke cable, if that's not it going to pull manifold and check those gaskets. Did not really happen suddenly. Seemed after I had it down last year to pull swingarm and replace broken drive belt when I started back up it ran differently. Always something. It does seem to be sucking air some where.
#4
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you take the manifold off or are close to it, then just replace the seals. Coat the seals with this:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
It is the same stuff as the correct hylomar product to use for just about any gasket dressing, threads, flanges etc. Moco has recommended it for years and it is good chit. Use it as a coating on the seals instead of grease (greasing the seals is a common recommendation). This takes it one step further by providing a better seal than the grease and is fuel resistant. It does not set up or cure. It stays thick, sticky and tacky. You can get it at Orielly's auto parts. Good stuff to keep around the shop. Good luck. YD
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
It is the same stuff as the correct hylomar product to use for just about any gasket dressing, threads, flanges etc. Moco has recommended it for years and it is good chit. Use it as a coating on the seals instead of grease (greasing the seals is a common recommendation). This takes it one step further by providing a better seal than the grease and is fuel resistant. It does not set up or cure. It stays thick, sticky and tacky. You can get it at Orielly's auto parts. Good stuff to keep around the shop. Good luck. YD
#5
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pulled the manifold and carb today, seals look old and weathered but not sure if this is the cause. I will get new tomorrow and the permashield. Also the manual says I have a pilot and a main jet in the stock cv carb. Would the idle jet be what they are calling the pilot?? The other I can see with breather cover off and seems to be shooting plenty of gas at the twist of the throttle. Appreciate the input YD.
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
#6
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Idle and pilot are the same. What you see squirting is the accelerator pump. That gives you a quick shot of fuel for faster acceleration when you twist the throttle (as you noticed). That should provide a pretty steady squirt when you twist the throttle. If not, an accelerator pump diaphragm failing is usually the problem.
Most have had good luck with about a 45 idle/slow jet and about 180 main, but tuning a carb on yours can be different settings on mine, so that is a ball park. There is a idle mixture screw that is sealed off buy the factory, but is easily accessed by removing the plug to allow you to adjust or fine tune the screw. But before you mess with it, read up on how to remove it, and take note of your original screw setting (how many turns till the needle seats. But again, be careful, it is a fine adjustment and if you tighten that screw to tight you can eff up your carb. Again do a little homework/reading here and on the net. Do you have a factory manual?
Those seals can be deceiving. They can leak and they can shrink up so if there is some age on them, then replace them. Check the manifold where the seals fit on to make sure that metal is smooth with no casting defects. There is also a torque value and sequence to torqueing the manifold flanges so don't overtorque the flanges.
Did you check out the enrichener (choke) cable where it threads into the carb for leaking or a bad o-ring? YD
Most have had good luck with about a 45 idle/slow jet and about 180 main, but tuning a carb on yours can be different settings on mine, so that is a ball park. There is a idle mixture screw that is sealed off buy the factory, but is easily accessed by removing the plug to allow you to adjust or fine tune the screw. But before you mess with it, read up on how to remove it, and take note of your original screw setting (how many turns till the needle seats. But again, be careful, it is a fine adjustment and if you tighten that screw to tight you can eff up your carb. Again do a little homework/reading here and on the net. Do you have a factory manual?
Those seals can be deceiving. They can leak and they can shrink up so if there is some age on them, then replace them. Check the manifold where the seals fit on to make sure that metal is smooth with no casting defects. There is also a torque value and sequence to torqueing the manifold flanges so don't overtorque the flanges.
Did you check out the enrichener (choke) cable where it threads into the carb for leaking or a bad o-ring? YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; 06-01-2015 at 08:58 PM.
#7
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Idle and pilot are the same. What you see squirting is the accelerator pump. That gives you a quick shot of fuel for faster acceleration when you twist the throttle (as you noticed). That should provide a pretty steady squirt when you twist the throttle. If not, an accelerator pump diaphragm failing is usually the problem.
Most have had good luck with about a 45 idle/slow jet and about 180 main, but tuning a carb on yours can be different settings on mine, so that is a ball park. There is a idle mixture screw that is sealed off buy the factory, but is easily accessed by removing the plug to allow you to adjust or fine tune the screw. But before you mess with it, read up on how to remove it, and take note of your original screw setting (how many turns till the needle seats. But again, be careful, it is a fine adjustment and if you tighten that screw to tight you can eff up your carb. Again do a little homework/reading here and on the net. Do you have a factory manual?
Those seals can be deceiving. They can leak and they can shrink up so if there is some age on them, then replace them. Check the manifold where the seals fit on to make sure that metal is smooth with no casting defects. There is also a torque value and sequence to torqueing the manifold flanges so don't overtorque the flanges.
Did you check out the enrichener (choke) cable where it threads into the carb for leaking or a bad o-ring? YD
Most have had good luck with about a 45 idle/slow jet and about 180 main, but tuning a carb on yours can be different settings on mine, so that is a ball park. There is a idle mixture screw that is sealed off buy the factory, but is easily accessed by removing the plug to allow you to adjust or fine tune the screw. But before you mess with it, read up on how to remove it, and take note of your original screw setting (how many turns till the needle seats. But again, be careful, it is a fine adjustment and if you tighten that screw to tight you can eff up your carb. Again do a little homework/reading here and on the net. Do you have a factory manual?
Those seals can be deceiving. They can leak and they can shrink up so if there is some age on them, then replace them. Check the manifold where the seals fit on to make sure that metal is smooth with no casting defects. There is also a torque value and sequence to torqueing the manifold flanges so don't overtorque the flanges.
Did you check out the enrichener (choke) cable where it threads into the carb for leaking or a bad o-ring? YD
When replacing manifold seals be sure to tourqe the manifold back in the series described in your manual. If no manual , tourqe manifold bolts a bit at a time on both sides to distribute the tourqe evenly. This is important !
Let us know how it goes.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
![Default](https://www.hdforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I can find no o-ring on enrich cable cap, and the exploded view does not show one for a 93 FLHS. I put new manifold seals in with dressing and ended up scaring one up so have to redue. Thank god they're cheap. Most of the problem has been tightening manifold so I ordered a manifold rachet 30.00 online. Waiting for that so wil pull carb apart meanwhile. What do you soak it in, gas?? Rebuild kit at J&P cycles is reasonable may go that route. Any more ideas greatly appreciated!!
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott