I decided to remove the jumper wire from the ignition circuit breaker to the lighting breaker on my 88 EGC. I didn't want all the lights on when I start the bike. I did this on my 75 iron head but there it was just a matter of switching the two wires at the ignition switch.
On the 88 I heard you only have to remove the one jumper wire. Well that is only partially true as long as you don't mind not having the gauges working when you start the bike. Personally I want to see the oil pressure, voltage and the rpm during startup it let's me know what the engine is doing and if everything is OK.
After studying the electrical prints and opening up the fairing I discovered an easy solution. For the oil / voltage gauges clip the single orange wire going into the gauge plug. Cap off that wire to prevent it from shorting out and splice a wire to the plug and connect it to the ignition CB. The tach/ speedometer gauge is similar but there are TWO orange wires that have to be cut those two ends have to be spliced together ( other components are fed ) then splice a wire to the two orange ends coming out of the plug and run it to the igntion CB also. By the way for this bike the two spliced in wires are only about 8" long.
Now when you start the bike on the igntion switch only the dashboard comes on saving all the amps for the starter by not having all the other lights come on.

 

Realistically, the battery provides plenty of power to crank the engine with the headlight turned on...

But it does bug some folks not having control of the lights.

Some models powered the headlight circuit from terminal 87a on the starter relay, which turned off the headlight when the starter was energized.

That setup worked fine, but used a convoluted path for the power to the starter solenoid, and the fix for this was adding the second relay.

 

I always like to plan on the unexpected, like leaving the accesories on

 

When I had the fairing off of my 94 Ultra, I added in a toggle switch on the left inner fairing that cuts the ground to the headlight causing it to go off. I cut it before starting and just flip it up once it is running. Doesn't effect anything but the headlight (makes the indicator turn on too) and all the connections are behind the headlight bucket if I want to go back to original real quick like.

Griz

 

Mine can be reversed easily also. I didn't even cut the jumper I just taped it back out of harms way.

 

Last fall my ing. switch started to act up on me. Jumper was disconnected so first turn had no lights, second was ing on with lights, well second turn decided not to make contact anymore so I had to ride with no lights or switch it back and forth till I seen the neutral light come on then it would start. That's not good at night!!! Got lucky too many times.
So I replaced it with a newer electronic switch over the old barrel style that's unreliable,very smooth like night and day, literally.

 

My 1990 FLHS is an International model and came new with the lights switched separately from the ignition. Later bikes are like US models, with compulsory daytime lights, but it wasn't compulsory here back in 1990. Check your lights when you press the starter button, to see if they go out briefly. Unfortunately the wiring for my bike isn't in the service manual.

 

The only thing according to the electrical prints that gets shut off by the relay is the accessory circuit breaker. The head light never shut off when the starter was cranking which is why I removed the jumper wire. Having the gauges work while the switch is on the ignition just made sense.