I mean just a small radius like R1.5-R2 (mm) not a sharp edge.
I saw also used heads where the little chamber (black in this pic) is the same high like the sealing surface.
I believe that will increase the compression.
But it's not my goal to increase the compression.

 

It would help us a lot if you gave us a complete list of engine mods, including piston size (What part number on the Wiseco pistons), cylinder bore, Stock heads? combustion chamber size? With the parts your assembling what will the compression be for this build etc..? You can open the chamber if you like but why do you think you need to do that? it will definitely mess with the chamber burn which can adversely affect the power..

 

One other thing, I wouldn't manipulate the combustion chamber (open it up) to satisfy a camshaft.. get another cam that's appropriate for both the compression and you're riding style..

 

Aloha,
@98hotrodfatboy
your comment: You can open the chamber if you like but why do you think you need to do that? it will definitely mess with the chamber burn which can adversely affect the power.
Before the input with the compression to high came from you.
Watch you compression. with that 30* ivc You really don't want to go over 9.7:1.. (9.5:1 Static will work very nicely).
That's the closing timing of the intake valve.. it is used in a formula to determine your dynamic compression based off of your static compression..

Sorry but I'm a little confused.

To explain your questions:
It would help us a lot if you gave us a complete list of engine mods,
including piston size (What part number on the Wiseco pistons),


cylinder bore?
the outer packaging says 83"



The tag at the single cylinder box says 85"



Stock heads? combustion chamber size?
yes stock heads the get rebuild with the Kibblewhite valve kit including new seats and new Ampco 45 sleeves


in combination with the S&S lifters



With the parts your assembling what will the compression be for this build etc..?.

Should be at 10-1 as I understand the description right when using a 0.045 head gasket

get another cam that's appropriate for both the compression and you're riding style.
What should be wrong with the Andrews EV23?
Many Bikes use this cam with the normal setup and it's the right one for my riding style 2 persons on a bagger with the 34-65 rear drive pulleys

EV23 EVOLUTION CAM

• Bolt-in cam for heavier touring bikes and high-geared bikes with 65-tooth rear pulleys
• Crisp throttle response and strong pulling power from 1,500 to 6,000 rpm
• Works well in higher altitudes
• Uses stock springs; works with carbs or fuel injection
• Fits all 1984-1999 Harley Davidson Evolution Big Twin models (excludes 1999 Twin Cams)
• INTAKE
• Open (in degrees): 10
• Close (in degrees): 30
• Duration at .053 (in degrees): 220
• Duration at .020 (in degrees): 255
• Valve lift: .498
• Lift at TDC: .134
  EXHAUST
• Open (in degrees): 40
• Close (in degrees): 8
• Duration at .053 (in degrees): 228
• Duration at .020 (in degrees): 264
• Valve lift: .98
• Lift at TDC: .121

 

So you have a 3.538 bore Wiseco piston? that has a 12.9cc dome that's their 10:1 piston?

If so, my calculation with the above bore and dome a .045" head gasket and typically stock Evo heads run around 85 cc with the piston .004" in the hole put you around 9.55:1 compression and that 30* ivc will be fine...you will not need to do anything to the heads...

Depending on your actual cylinder head combustion chamber size you can even go with a .030 head gasket and still have a dynamic compression of 9.35:1 corrected for cam timing close of 30* and a cold cranking pressure (compression) of around 194 psi... Very Doable...

 

Where do see that it has a 12.9cc dome?
According supplier it should work with the original heads.

 

Aloha,
yesterday I start to reassemble my engine and it was not the worst decision when I see the cylinder walls and exhaust ports.
I know the engine burns some oil and lost a bit at the rear cylinder base.
That's why I start with this game.
I know from the former owner that the base gasket was replaced years ago and when I look at the marks in the cylinder wall and see the position of the rings.
I believe there was something went wrong with the ring position when they assembled it.










After removing the heads and valves I sandblast and pack them to ship to a guy who's doing the head work
means he will replace the valve guides and seats if necessary.
Thereafter he install the new Kibblewhite valve set.
In between I replace the pistons and cylinders and the cam shaft include bearing and ignition as described above.
Hopefully I receive the heads as soon that can finish my project before my holidays.
To remove the Valves i used the cheap chines automotive valve press from ali express.
My expectations about the quality were not that much.
But it looks fine and does the job well and easy.
I wouldn't recommend this tool for daily use in an professional work shop.
I think it's ok for several amateur mechanic use.

For more pictures you can check my album I will update it at the next milestone.

 

Why new cylinders.? You can have a local shop bore to your Pistons.. Just make sure the bore is set to the Piston manufacturers recommendation.. as for the heads wow the one cylinder looks like you had very little compression, don't know how the exhaust valve was seating.. and you found your oil consumption in the other head.. You definitely should replace the guides.. What cam are you going with?

 

Aloha,
I have the new cylinders including the Wiseco pistons on stock.
The mechanic who rework the heads has a huge knowledge and also the Amoco guides.
So everything is well prepared.
I will use the Andrews EV23 include the S&S lifters.
Everything is posted earlier in this tread.

 

I see now, someone else's thread.

Sorry but this is why you should start your own thread...