Yep, I've seen the special nut/lock ring combo that JIMS sells and it does look like the solution to the problem if it ever arises. Unless you're having an issue currently with it, I wouldn't dive in and replace the HD one. Like I posted, you'll know when it starts putting nickle sized oil spots on the garage floor. As far as lifter go, you probably can't go wrong using the JIMS, S&S, or any of the ones that are from reputable mfg's. When you do the cam, like you replied, that's the time to get in and replace the lifters too. Also make certain that you've got the correct cam gear, or reuse the original one so you won't get a lot of 'whine'.

 

Hackd,
Thanks for the response and sorry I didn't get back sooner. Been busy trying to fab up the new front frame mounts for the crossover shifter and we are having some difficulty. Seems as though the front left frame mount is about 1/4" lower than the right side. No so with the 86 FXRP, so apparently this frame is different and we'll have to compensate for that.

My bike hassome type of HD or aftermarket exhaust pipes/heat shieldswith slash cut mufflers. There is no logo that we can find and do not know who manufactured them. There is no cross over as the stock system would have had. They look and sound great and I'll keep those for now. Next project after I sell some of the takeoff parts from the bike will be the cam, bearing, lifter and pushrod swap. Havent decided on the EV 27 or EV 46 yet, but it will be an Andrews for sure. Any advice on the best pushrods? Leaning towards the Andrews there to keep everything in the family.

Local Indy days he can switch the cam gear out, so that issue will be is resolved. The previous owner just had a new rear belt installed. I'm going to check with his mechanic to find out if the sprocket lock system was ever upgraded. I find no evidence of any base gasket or rocker box gasket leaks and the entire engine looks dry. Maybe I got lucky and bought a good one .

 

Good for you! Like I posted numerous times, an EVO is not supposed to leak. The MoCo was very anile about the 'history' of leaking motorcycles.

As far as the cam selection, check around and do your research. I'm running the EV27 in my 93 FLHS and I'm very happy with it. Good idle, great gas mileage, lots of power where it's needed. But it's a much heavier bike than your FX is. I also originally had the Andrew's adjustable pushrods installed. Until the last indy removed them...He said that one was cracked...It's a long and painful story that I won't get into here.

If the top end is good, leave it alone. But if you've just gotta tinker with it, I'd recommend again that you get the heads 'street ported' and the valves 'freshened up' and a bit of compression increase. Stock EVO's have like 8.5:1 CRs, you can easily go to 9-9.5:1 and still run pump premium gas without any problems....Except for the urge to twist the wick.....

And again...I'm a firm believer in the benefits of getting a good dyno tune. It maycost you a couple hours of dyno / tuner time. But, IMO, it's money well spent...If the tuner has a clue. You can make your bike run good, you can make it run 'great'...But you still don't know if you're getting everything out of the combination until you run it on a dyno.

 

No dyno around here, so I kinda gotta go seat of the pants. I'll call Andrews & see what they have to say about the two cams. If you had a problem with the pushrods, where would you go next, S&S or Crane?

BTW, noticed today after removing the front exhaust a trail of cream colored stuff like caulk running from where the module wires come out downwards fromthe cam cover. Any ideas here, like maybe the thing is melting?

 

I didn't have any problems with the pushrods...The Indy shop removed them and didn't replace them. Then came up with the lame *** story that one was cracked. Now if I had adjustable pushrods on the bike when it came in...I'd expect to have them when the bike left. Even if one was cracked, I would've like having it replaced. Like I said it's a long and painful story. Don't let anyone work on your bike....

Goo outta the cam cone cover? Doesn't sound good. Had if solidified? Or was it tacky? Either way you probably should pull the cover and take a look/see.

Edit: If you'd fill out your profileand/or put your location inthe avatar area you might get somelocal help as to where a good dyno tuner is.

 

Welcome to the world of the FXLR...I've ownedmyFXLR-C since rolling it out of the shop in Luwigshafen back in 1988. Great all around bike and it isn't one that you'll see an abundance of so be proud!...Everyone has touched on all the problems that were caused by those cost cutters at the factory. I've had to replace my mainshaft because the pulley nut fell off and screwed up the threads and the base gasket scenario. I do most of my own motor work (except for machining) and if you have the manual, you can work it with no problem. As for upgrades, I installed Branch Flowmetric heads with the JE 10.5:1 pistons running 30 over about 10 years ago and they stillperform like a champ. I used to run a Edelbrock QuikSilver carb and I used to like it until I swapped it out for an S&S. I sent the Edelbrockto convert it to a pumper and it never acted right after I got it back. It also had a needle separate fromits head and left me stranded in the middle of the Mojave Desert (guess when I made the switch to S&S!) If you do add some power, I'd upgrade the clutch. I installed the Scorpion from Barnett and it sure makes a difference. One last piece: When you upgrade your exhaust, do not run straight pipes. At a minimum, install some race baffles so you'll get enough back pressure. You won't lose the sound and the power band will be consistent.Oh yea, take care yourbelt. It is high adventure toreplace it. Anyway, that's a little bit of what I've learned from owning one for the past 19 years. It is a faithful horse.

 

Go up to the top of the page and click on the 'My Profile' tab. It's pretty much self explanatory afterthat.

Ft Meyers, Florida? USA?

Check out these Dynojet locations: http://www.dynojet.com/maps/bikedynos/fl.htm

 

Bee576,
Thanks for your input it is appreciated.

Hackd,
Thanks for the links on the Dyno stuff. I did check into that while checking out the local MC shops over the weekend. Seems that one is for crotch rockets, HD of Ft. Myers is a no no, so that leaves Horney's and American. Horney's is mostly into the 88 Twin Cam stuff. I'm going over and talk to Wayne at American on Saturday. They have a good reputation and I know that he has done quite a bit of performance work on Evo engines.

Spoke to Ralph at Andrews yesterday who also owns a 93 FXLR. I'm going with the setup that he recommends and runs himself. To my surprise an EV 27 cam and a set of long Pythons to go along with the S&S Super E. Thecam, pushrods and new bearing were ordered yesterday.S&S lifters today and looking for the best price on the Pythons somewhere. Meanwhile the plater told me three weeks to get the shifter parts plated, so looks like some downtime. Hope I get to ride this thing before Hurricane season starts [:@].

 

No problem bro....

I don't think you'll be disappointed with the EV-27 cam either. It will really 'wake-up' the motor compared to the stock 93 cam. Consider getting a different ignition module that will letyou reva bit higher than the stock one does. SE, Dyna, etc all make 'plug-in' modules. Combine that with a good tune on the Super E and you'll be grinin' ear to ear.

You probably know this already, but there are a couple ways to install the cam. You can tear the rocker boxes off (you'll need a gasket set-HD is around $50 for them), or you can cut the stock pushrods with a pair of bolt cutters and not have to mess with the rockerboxes. Of course you're gonna need a bunch of gaskets for the pushrod tubes, lifters and cam cone.

Personally, I'd tear the boxes off. You can keep the stock pushrods 'on the shelf', and you'll be able to see where the valves are at when you put it back together and adjust the new pushrods. But it's your choice either way. However...If your chrome is gonna take three weeks....Time to think about pulling the heads and getting that street porting job done, and perhaps that 'bit' of compression increase. It's not going to decrease your reliability by any significant amount (unless you're really hard on the bike), but it will add to the benefits of the new cam, carb, and exhaust.

Run that girl on a dyno when you're done and post the numbers. I'll be interested in seeing the results.

 

I'm going to let the boys at American (Wayne) do the install. For the $$$ I think The SE ignition module is the way for me to go right now. He knows about what jets are right for the carb for the combinations that they have done. We'll do the cam, cam bearingswap, lifters, lifter blocks, pushrods and module with the exhausts that I have now.

After I ride the damn thing for awhile and save some more $$$ I'll buythe Pythons and call S&S and get a baseline for the jetsand confer with Wayne. Then the good exhausts and final jetting will go in. I hear what you are saying, but I don't want to remove the rocker boxes, heads or cylinders until there is a specific reason to do that. Then it will be time perhaps for the headwork and oil fix .

Got anymore info onstreet porting companiesother than Jerry Branch? I know that SE heads arenot the ultimate, but a new set can be had for around $600.00. How do I post a photo? Thanks....