Bike won't shift when running
#1
Bike won't shift when running
Hello all. Lots of you have responded to my threads about my 1997 FLHT. thanks! The saga continues...
I started having issues with the bike not wanting to shift, unless I double clutched, the problem got worse to where the bike wouldn't shift (running or not). I took the clutch apart and noticed that the brass rivets in the spring plate had fallen out and were laying in the bottom of the basket (totally destroyed one of the fiber disks). So I installed a new HD SE clutch with the extra spring that replaces the spring plate, adjusted everything per the instructions in my service manual, and had to re set the ball and ramp. I've take the top off of the trans and the springs are where they are supposed to be. The shifter moves freely when the bike is not running (between 1-n-2), but as soon as you start the bike and shift into 1st, it gets stuck into 1st gear and won't come out until you shut the bike off. Could this be in the clutch adjustment? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Chaz
I started having issues with the bike not wanting to shift, unless I double clutched, the problem got worse to where the bike wouldn't shift (running or not). I took the clutch apart and noticed that the brass rivets in the spring plate had fallen out and were laying in the bottom of the basket (totally destroyed one of the fiber disks). So I installed a new HD SE clutch with the extra spring that replaces the spring plate, adjusted everything per the instructions in my service manual, and had to re set the ball and ramp. I've take the top off of the trans and the springs are where they are supposed to be. The shifter moves freely when the bike is not running (between 1-n-2), but as soon as you start the bike and shift into 1st, it gets stuck into 1st gear and won't come out until you shut the bike off. Could this be in the clutch adjustment? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Chaz
#2
#4
try the adjustment this way -
loosen the cable adjustment till the lever has slack at the handlebar - then loosen the clutch nut and hold the allen screw steady dont let it turn < for testing purposes - use an off set box wrench if you have one and set it forward of the clutch hub at 9 oclock tap it with a light hammer and the nut will brake free - than turn the allen screw clockwise to see if any slack and how much till it starts to contact the TOB , if the screw is tight against the TOB than back if off the correct amount - at that point walk it back and forth to get the center spot than back it off 1/4 of a turn or just till its loose in the threads - hold the allen steady turn the nut clockwise to 3 oclock with the wrench installed and tap with the light hammer to lock it in place -- then take the slack out of the lever with the cable adjustment so as to have just a slight bit of play at the lever
see what that does when you start it up and try it
loosen the cable adjustment till the lever has slack at the handlebar - then loosen the clutch nut and hold the allen screw steady dont let it turn < for testing purposes - use an off set box wrench if you have one and set it forward of the clutch hub at 9 oclock tap it with a light hammer and the nut will brake free - than turn the allen screw clockwise to see if any slack and how much till it starts to contact the TOB , if the screw is tight against the TOB than back if off the correct amount - at that point walk it back and forth to get the center spot than back it off 1/4 of a turn or just till its loose in the threads - hold the allen steady turn the nut clockwise to 3 oclock with the wrench installed and tap with the light hammer to lock it in place -- then take the slack out of the lever with the cable adjustment so as to have just a slight bit of play at the lever
see what that does when you start it up and try it
#5
On my wife's sporty I can never get the clutch adjusted properly unless the engine is warmed up. Then I get it right every time. I don't know why this is but, if I try it cold it never works. Sounds to me like the clutch is adjusted too loose, or that it's not disengaging. If I were in your shoes I would try to warm the bike up good and then do the whole procedure per the manual. Don't try to fine tune the adjuster. That's extremely hit or miss and you never know if your going in the wrong direction. I have found that it's best to just start at the beginning and do it over.
Last edited by falconbrother; 09-26-2014 at 07:31 AM.
#7
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#8
I could never figure it out totally, I got the bike to shift, but it would still drag in first gear, with the clutch in.
Initially the problem was that the brass rivets had come out of the spring plate and were all jammed up in the clutch basket. I put the new clutch in and could never get it right. It made it to an indy last week and am waiting on the call. His shop is busy and I have the ultra to ride, so I told him not to hurry. I'll report back once I know for sure. I'd have a look at your clutch adjustment first and then the spring plate.
Initially the problem was that the brass rivets had come out of the spring plate and were all jammed up in the clutch basket. I put the new clutch in and could never get it right. It made it to an indy last week and am waiting on the call. His shop is busy and I have the ultra to ride, so I told him not to hurry. I'll report back once I know for sure. I'd have a look at your clutch adjustment first and then the spring plate.
#9
I absolutely followed John's advise, but to no avail. (can't thank John enough for taking my pm's and the additional advice he offered). I love to work on my bikes, but I know my limits when it comes to wrenching. I'm a bail bondsman, not a mechanic! Some problems can't be fixed by a book and tools, there is no substitute for experience.