$125 an hour!!!!!! Did he immigrate here from Norway???? We get $45 an hour in NY where it's way maore expensive to live than in Reidsville. Glad I'm moving to SC, the local bikers should be thrilled once we get the shop up and running.

 

He is Rick Doss Inc. (Fabber for Custom Chrome) wanted $400 to make a braided brake line on my Sporty (20" line i burned in half on my tail pipe and 2 days to fab, I fabbed one in 20 min in the auto-zone next door) I hate it here, the HD Dealer in Danville can't match OEM to OEM numbers. (Gave me a Front stop lamp switch when I gave the OEM # for a solenoid) Greensboro HD Gouges the hell out of you and will not order parts over 5 years old. Dixie Choppers is a friend of mine but charges way up there, ($125 for a solenoid OEM not Accell). So yeah it is bad here. RUBs live here.

 

Here is the diagram of my clutch:

 

To MIACycles here's the pic:

 

in the manual it said to loosen clutch cable, do the jam nut and adjuster screw set 1/2 to 1 turn, then squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit, 3 times to set ball and ramp release mechanism, then set your free play on the hand leveler, been reading this and this was not mentioned, did you do this 3 times to set ball and ramp release mechanism ??

 

OK, 'Bama. Somethin' ain't right here. The drawing you posted is for an early style clutch, basically from shovelhead dazes. It was a good clutch and all, just not the new style. The transmission for that and the right side covering for it has a vertical shaft and a lever attached to the shaft that the cable connects to. This is the arrangement used from 1936 to 1986, and it works fine too, just not the new style. The photo you posted of your right side transmission cover is of a 1987-up with the cable attaching to the cover and the ***** and ramp "sportster style" release mechanism. So, you have an early style clutch and a late style release mechanism. I wonder if this may be the root of your problem. I wonder if the later style release mechanism is not able to move the shaft out enough for your early style clutch. If this is the case, leaving out a clutch plate MIGHT give you enough slack for the whole thing to work, but I'm guessing here.

 

@Dr. Hess, Called the PO the other night and he said a new clutch was put in a year before he parked it and he had problems with 1st gear so he just started in 2nd. I had to remove the clutch basket in order to replace the ring gear and starter shaft and starter clutch. It is an E84 style clutch and he said it cost him $200 for clutch and labor, so that tells me it was not new. When I squeeze the clutch it moves the lock nut out approx. 1/4-3/8". So I may take your advice and remove a plate. I ordered a throwout bearing also in case that is it.
To the above post (before Hess) Yes I am turning adjuster out 1/2 turn and seating the adjuster by squeezing the lever 3-5 times. Sorry didn't mention it.

 

Ok, was looking at a more detailed diagram of my clutch. Between the locknut/adjuster and the clutch hub nut there is an o-ring?, washer, spring,and washer. Mine has none of thee. The diagram does not identify what these are. Anyone know? Seems to apply pressure between the hub and pressure plate. It is not the oil seal. Could this be a factor in my problem? Will be checking the tranny end Monday.

 

I looked your clutch up in my (HD) parts book. It says it should go (left to right):

Adjusting screw
nut (adjuster)
left side push rod end
push rod
right side push rod end
thrust washer
bearing (push rod)
thrust washer
retaining ring
release finger (in the right side)

I don't see any O ring or other parts as you describe and I don't recall any other pieces there, but it's been over 25 years since I took apart that style of clutch. Fortunately, that style is easy to take apart. The official parts catalog, part number 99438-86B, shows your clutch but it is rather confusing in the area of the push rod. The diagram goes left to right, but the lines turn directions and the push rod itself, with the bearing and thrust washers, is actually drawn right to left, backwards from the rest of the drawing.

I still suspect the problem is the hybrid of old clutch and new clutch release (right side). This is probably why the PO parked and later sold the bike. Obviously, it never worked right after the last "mechanic" did the clutch, the PO got frustrated and sold the bike.

 

So far I have looked at 3 diagrams for the 70-E84 clutch and they are all different. How much travel should there be on the push rod? I re-adjusted the clutch this am after it had sat a couple of days. The cable was all way out and I ran the adjuster screw in as far as it would go then backed out the screw 1/2 turn, squeezed the lever 3 times and took up the slack in the cable. Left 1/8" free play in the cable. I set my ruler against the outer spring plate against the lock nut and squeezed the lever, the measurement of play was 1/16". I am guessing this is too little. After heating (swelling) up and fluid gets between the plates and clutches this would be reduced to 0. Believe pulling a plate is the answer. (how many plates would be safe to pull? It has 5)