Hay all
After alot research and asking alot question a I decieded on the Andrews 48h cams in my 2011 wg.
Im not sure if I want to replace the pushrods or take the extra time to pull the rocker boxes off pull the pushrods out the top and reuse them.
Besides its quicker to cut the pushrods,what other benefits are there to using adj pushrods ?

Im doing the swap myself so time isnt a issue.

Thanks fellas

 

The other benefit of adjustable piush rods is you can adjust out some of the lifter noise by setting the pushrods a bit deeper.

If you're replacing the cams you should consider replacing the inner cam bearings with full compliment bearings like the Koyo/Torrington B168's.

If it were me I'd also replace the lifters. 2011's had C-lifters(made in Mexico), and there are many reports of failures.

I'm a big fan of the Andrews 48 cams. Great torque and power and they run very smooth.

 

Good choice on the 48H. I'm running them in my 07 Fatty. I picked them because they are designed for the stock 96 inch motor. I planned on re-using the stock pushrods. My bike had close to 40k miles, so wanted to pull the rocker boxes and replace the breather parts. They were very cooked and crispy when I opened it up. Not a big deal pulling boxes, but taking the tank off is always a pain.

Anyway, it is cheaper if you re-use the stock rods. Adjustables are close to $200 (at least for SE tapered.) Gasket kit includes box and breather parts for $50 (from Fuel Moto) and you need it anyway for the other o rings and cam cover seal. I also did lifters, inner cam bearings, and chain tensioners. Wound up using adjustables cause I needed a do over after I Futzed up the cam alignment dots the first go round....live and learn!

 

Thanks for the info guys. Im thinking ill stick with stock pushrods for now to save alittle cash. Right now we are having some home renovations done that is eating up alot of the play money. It will get new cam bearings.

 

Hi,
Just inspect all your o-rings, gaskets etc as you can re-use them as well, clean well and keep clean until they put back, dont unbolt the oil pump

Get a couple of larger hoses to put over ends of fuel tank outlets to drain, you be surprised how much is left in tank even if drain it from top
Thanks

 

I ordered the Andrews 48, S&S adj push rods and the heartland cam bearing remover/installer today.
Is the a gasket set that just has the necessary gaskets and orings needed or is there only a kit like Fuelmoto has that comes with every gasket and oring needed to do cams as if you were removing the rocker boxes to install push rods?
I didnt get the bearings yet because if I end up getting the gasket set from Fuelmoto the bearings are included.

 

You can just get the S&S cam replacement gasket set.........
Come's with the correct bearings, cam cover gasket and oil pump O-ring......

If I was you I would go ahead and replaced the other 2 oil port O-rings, you will see these when you pull the cam chest plate... Very easy to do..........

I just did my cams, Andrews 48H - SE tapered Quick install push rod kit - also replace the oil bypass plunger and spring with the Baisley's plunger and LMR2 spring this will fortify your oil pressure, Harley's bypass plunger and spring do not always seat well there for loss of oil pressure at low rpm...
Do a little reading on this and you will understand more.

Live Free = Ride Free..........

 

I learned a trick on removing the fuel tank from Redbeard and have modified his idea a bit. OP maybe this will help you.

Pinch the lines on each side near the ends with needle nose vice grips. Then cut the line in the middle. I then took some spare fuel line and a ⅜ fuel line spice (available at Home Depot in the marine section, they also have them in the plumbing section, in the shark bite fittings), connect one hose, drain that side, then do the other. Or just remove the tank without draining it with the lines clamped. You can then use the splice and a couple of hose clamps to repair the line, or you can drain it and replace the line, up to you.

Question for someone who has done this...the other night I removed the front and rear bolts on my tank in preparation to remove it to replace the top motor mount, but I realized I could lift front of the tank quite a bit leaving the hose intact and then lift the rear way up and hold it in place with a bungee to the mirror stalk. I had a ton of room to work. Has anyone tried to remove the rocker boxes with the tank held up this way? I didn't look too closely but I bet there is room...but maybe not enough room to get the pushrods out of the front.