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2000 RKC Macchine it or change it?

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  #1  
Old 07-14-2014 | 08:51 AM
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Default 2000 RKC Macchine it or change it?

I have a 2000 Road King Classic I was going to do the big bore kit to a 95, I feel it would be a wast of money, I think 115 to 120 hp would wake it up.. Not going to happen with a 95 ci. And I have the loser mm efi. I know it going to cost some bucks, should I just change the engine or jump in and do a stroker kit? Does anyone know a shop in Pa that could do the machine work, I was going to go with the s@s flywheel and go from there. The bike has a factory flame paint job, I think it would look like a sleeper If I used the se heads instead of another manufacturer. what have guys done to your road kings and can the suspension handle the horse? I don't do the numb butt riding anymore, maybe 200 miles on a day at the most. And I do like to beat it, like I stole it.
 
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Old 07-14-2014 | 09:47 AM
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S&S 4 3/8" wheels
Bore to 3.395"
S&S, Crane, or Bob Wood cam
Good set of heads
HPI has single bore Marrelli conversion t/body's(or convert to carb)
Good pipe.
It'll run very well............
I know a shop in NY State that does that.........
Scott
 
  #3  
Old 07-14-2014 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by nepaevo
  1. I have a 2000 Road King Classic I was going to do the big bore kit to a 95, I feel it would be a wast of money,
  2. I think 115 to 120 hp would wake it up.. Not going to happen with a 95 ci.
  3. And I have the loser mm efi. I know it going to cost some bucks,
  4. should I just change the engine
  5. or jump in and do a stroker kit?
  6. Does anyone know a shop in Pa that could do the machine work,
  7. I was going to go with the s@s flywheel and go from there. The bike has a factory flame paint job, I think it would look like a sleeper
  8. If I used the se heads instead of another manufacturer. what have guys done to your road kings and
  9. can the suspension handle the horse?
  10. I don't do the numb butt riding anymore, maybe 200 miles on a day at the most. And I do like to beat it, like I stole it.
Whoa there pardner! Too many questions.
  1. is cheap and does give significant performance benefits, so value is entirely down to personal taste.
  2. before judging what will or will not happen, spend some time browsing this forum, where you will find several sponsors who are engine builders and tuners. Phone one or two and talk things through - you will get an entirely fresh view of the subject!
  3. there are solutions for everything, which a competent tuning shop will guide you around.
  4. as a new engine owner myself I can assure you they are darned expensive to buy and install, although also very rewarding
  5. as above, talk through the options with a tuning shop. Stripping and stroking an engine is also expensive!
  6. can't help you with that one.
  7. good choice, although there may be others. I have an S&S engine.
  8. your heads ported may be a lot cheaper than buying new ones.
  9. that's a matter of opinion! I would sort out your brakes first. There are a range of things that have to change with big horsepower, but your tuner will help you through that one.
  10. you'll be riding further if and when you build your rocket ship!!!!

Hope that helps. If you go for significant changes, it is wise to use a tuning shop that can offer you a proven package of improvements and parts, which they are confident will deliver the goods. The easy route is to not try to design this thing yourself, but find a shop you can feel happy with.
 
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Old 07-14-2014 | 09:59 AM
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There ya go - one of those sponsors found you while I was posting. Scott is just up the road from you......
 
  #5  
Old 07-14-2014 | 10:31 AM
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Talk to Scott about a 98" package; 120 numbers may not be within reach but 110 numbers, or a little better, are doable and you will save a bundle. The cost to go stroker is going to be about the same whether for a 103" or 117"; going over 107" will add the cost of new cylinders. The machine and crank work is going to run $1500 or thereabouts, so you are looking at an all in cost of close to the cost of a new S&S motor, with a warranty.

As grbrown suggests, search the forum, do some homework, talk to some builders (there are two that sponsor this forum) before taking the leap.
 

Last edited by djl; 07-14-2014 at 10:35 AM.
  #6  
Old 07-14-2014 | 10:36 AM
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My bad; double post.
 

Last edited by djl; 08-05-2014 at 10:57 AM.
  #7  
Old 07-14-2014 | 12:38 PM
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Looks like a swap to me, There has to be some guys here with one they got for a build and its just sitting there. Like to see what ci people have put in there roadkings.
 
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Old 07-14-2014 | 03:11 PM
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Don't completely discount the idea of the potential in a 1550 Stage II. I had a trike (1999 Ultra) upgraded from 1450 to full Stage II and had the intake runner ported and flowed. I could feel a serious difference. I hauled my wife and all her baggage on that trike all over this country and ran with the 96's and 103's without any issues at all. I would agree that just tossing on some bigger pistons and jugs may not help a great deal (if any), but done by the right tuner and adding some extras (flow-bench work), it can be a very strong motor. That trike was an MM as well.
 
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Old 07-22-2014 | 07:40 AM
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I have been doing some homework, I think a 124 will be a fun build and just be crazy fun to ride.
 
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Old 07-22-2014 | 08:36 AM
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Go for it!

As "we" get older, our high compression and engine stress-tests seem to take a back seat to reliability. Buy the time you get as old as me....70-75MPH on the Interstate works just fine and you don't really care a lot about who-beats-who to the next traffic signal.

Do it while you can. I went as far as installing a turbo once. Went through rear tires like tissue-paper and ran out of friends to play with after I outran them all. Enjoy it while you can.
 


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