De-Tuning My Dyna...
#21
Just so no one's confused There was no issue that I can see with the guide The only reason you see the croil around there is because of the way it drip down the port onto it because the head was upside down..
Also yes cast iron will last a lot longer than bronze but the bronze will hold more oil than the cast iron therefore better lubrication of the stem..
Also yes cast iron will last a lot longer than bronze but the bronze will hold more oil than the cast iron therefore better lubrication of the stem..
#22
On my FXR, I've had tower bolts that have loosened. I'd blown a headgasket and noticed it on disassembly. I'd used ARP bolts and blue LT. Not sure if I failed to clean things up or the bolt simply loosened. The ARP was polished SS. I did the threads on a wire wheel. Haven't had a problem since.
You had the limiter set within a reasonable range. Shouldn't over rev unless you power shifted down one gear.
Pop the valve out and have a look see.
You had the limiter set within a reasonable range. Shouldn't over rev unless you power shifted down one gear.
Pop the valve out and have a look see.
The most important thing I need to do is to control throttle coming off the line I have seen that I've been in the 70% and above throttle range coming off the line which would indicate me having quite the difficult time keeping the front end on the ground..
So I did take everything apart and and cleaned it up the best I could... I use the head itself to determine whether or not the valve is bent at all and by rotating it by hand in the cylinder head You can see that the valve is not eccentric in the video below.. So with that and leakage I would say yeah it's definitely bent..
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Max Headflow (09-06-2024)
#23
I've not seen Rowe or Kibblewhite cast iron wear that well with the same nitrided valves.. I did see a set of guides in SnS Superstock with iron guides wear really well with a 640 lift cam after over 50000 miles.. Stock SnS valves.
I think some of the issues are in how you set them up.. I have a set of Pev Perf heads that had AVnV stuff and some horrendous valve springs that wore the stems and guide down but I didn't assemble the parts.. The AVnV stuff needs solid carbide reamers to get the proper fit..
BTW HRFP saying that high lift is unreliable is a little off. I got over 50K with 640 lift.. Springs were shoot tho.. My FXDX had 40000 miles on it when it blew up. Kibblewhite guides and guides are at the limits.. Springs were shot on it also..
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No no pic of the piston because everything was pretty carboned up and if I would have had valve to piston contact it would have been seen somewhere and I didn't see any trace of that at all anywhere, so I didn't bother with that or even any witness marks on the edge of the valve..
I do know that the seats were sunk really deep into the heads to make sure my valve the valve clearance would be okay and yes I did clay these upon original installation and I had .086" valve piston.. I also opened the radius of the valve relief on the Pistons to confirm that there would be no contact there as well...
Here's another pic showing the leakage down through the valve and seat after everything was cleaned up..
When I get the extra money I'll send the heads up get them repaired and go from there... I probably won't be till next year..
So till then I'm just going to run stage II heads and the woods 888 cams
I do know that the seats were sunk really deep into the heads to make sure my valve the valve clearance would be okay and yes I did clay these upon original installation and I had .086" valve piston.. I also opened the radius of the valve relief on the Pistons to confirm that there would be no contact there as well...
Here's another pic showing the leakage down through the valve and seat after everything was cleaned up..
When I get the extra money I'll send the heads up get them repaired and go from there... I probably won't be till next year..
So till then I'm just going to run stage II heads and the woods 888 cams
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 09-06-2024 at 12:52 PM.
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