Absolutely Bill, I could have walked away with a big issue.. as it is I just got a couple parts on order tensioners and that support plate and it'll be back together and running again and I'll be happy and hopefully I won't get stupid and do something else... Lol...

 

[QUOTE=Madnss;21801250]Yeah it's tough to have both but sometimes stupidity gets in the way with King of the Hill or do the two go together, I think they do....

 

i have that same old Hooker pipe and really loved the look and sound,,,but i tried on one of my 113 evo engines and it just chokes it right up,,,,had to go to soemthing diffrerent,,,got licky and found a White Bro's pipe for softail on ebay for reasonable money,,,will report findings after i can get it back on the dyno, What was wrong with the head that you couldn't affor to fix it? did you every actually diagnose that part? vlave seat issue?
curious.
m

 

@marcodarq
I didn't disassemble it yet.. I'm probably going to do that tomorrow.. I'm not sure if the geometry was so far off because of how deep the valves were sunk that it's possible after the plate had broke and raised up It pushed on the side of the stem and not down on the stem..
There was no abnormal wear on the valve stem tip or even on the rocker so it's really tough to tell..

 

before you take it apart, turn it chamber up and pour some fuel in the chamber and see if it dribbles into the intake port,,,,,trying to check the valve to seat seal,,,,then take it apart and look at the guide stuff, might just have to clean up the seat....maybe
m

 

Bummer Bob,

You know I have to mess with ya.

 

What's the theory? Radical cam and heavy springs stretching the bolts? I suppose you could measure them.

Was the leaking valve damaged by the mis aligned rocker side loading the stem? I don't know of it's right but we used to test valve sealing with solvent. The ones that leaked would often stop after giving the stem a tap to open and close the valve. I wonder if that would change your leak down test results.

 

I've never had any of these bolts come loose when properly torqued.. First time for everything I guess..
Definitely will be using loctite in the future... Always..



I think I over revved the motor and possibly loosening at that time.. Like I said when properly torqued I have never had an issue like this.. I tried popping the valve with no difference in the leak down test.. And yes I do believe from the breakage that it put unwarranted side load on the valve bending it.. Kroil proved the leakage..

 

On my FXR, I've had tower bolts that have loosened. I'd blown a headgasket and noticed it on disassembly. I'd used ARP bolts and blue LT. Not sure if I failed to clean things up or the bolt simply loosened. The ARP was polished SS. I did the threads on a wire wheel. Haven't had a problem since.


You had the limiter set within a reasonable range. Shouldn't over rev unless you power shifted down one gear.

Pop the valve out and have a look see.

 

I'm no fan of bronze valve guides. Cast iron guides with nitrided valves wear much better and last longer. Bronze is okay for a race engine that is going to be torn down and inspected frequently, but I don't use them for a street driven bike.