87Octane????????????????
Try some 93 octane!

 

And that's exactly what I want to... Inspection... Cause they have already said it's knock, and it's not my stuff.

 

I understand what makes knock worse. If something is borderline, then heat and octane will definitely effect knock. It is knock, heat and octane effect, and dealership agrees. The question now is why... I have a warantee. If something isn't right, I want it fixed. If something is broke, I want to make sure nothing has been damaged. So, off to the dealership.

Now, I'm no expert on knock. Nothing I've ever had did it. I asked and want to know. I'm certainly not trying to argue with people... It's just that when something can be ruled out by other evidence, well...

So, I can accept that maybe nothing is wrong. And maybe the answer is... Guess what, not all bikes are the same... Shouldn't do it, but it is... You need a tune, or keep buying octane booster... OK, well, I guess I'm getting a tuner sooner than I planned. I'll live. It's just that nothing happens for no reason, and I'm the kind that like to get to the root of things. I'm just weird like that. 😉

 

If the tech said removing you baffles shouldn't effect anything and you believe him there is really no point in continuing this conversation, I would tell you to look up reversion and see what effect that has on charge dilution but if you haven't listened to any of the folks way more knowledgeable than me up to this point, you're not going to listen to what I have to say either, good luck

 

And you should read the thread before criticizing for not listening. I have baffles.... And lollipops. I didn't just cut my baffles out. I, nor the service writer, never said removing the baffles shouldn't effect anything. Do you have anything to add, or do you just want to discuss me?

 

In your post #4, you indicated no changes; in your post #32 you indicated you had cut your baffles out, left the cats, added a hi-flow intake and attached a link to your "cut out baffles post"; in your post #36, you indicated to a tech that you were running "normal slipons" whatever that means and now we have lollipops.

Data logging has been suggested which you don't have the tools or the knowledge to do and a dyno tune has been advised several times which you keep saying you do not need and expect the ECM to make the adjustments. You keep posting and demonstrating the you have no idea what the problem might be but steadfastly have refused to heed the advice given by several that have much more experience with these issues. A proper tune will solve the problem, assuming you don't continue to lug the motor or in the process issue(s) that are causing the problem will surface and can be addressed; it's not has hard as you are making it.

So, as one who has been contributing to this thread, until you get the bike on a dyno, I am done trying to help and after 50 some odd posts, I imagine others are tiring of hearing you go on and on about this and that but ignoring the advice that has been given. So,if I were you, I would stop posting, get the bike tuned and come back with the results; good luck.

 

FFS... Does anyone read? 🤦

I linked the thread to what I did with my mufflers so you could see exactly... With pictures even. Just because you didn't bother to look, don't blame me for not having the info.

I have stated a couple times that I may indeed need a tune... You may indeed be right. However, the 1000s of happy slip on owners don't talk about inducing knock and requiring a tune. So while you still might be right, there is not a lot right now to back that up.

A high flow intake... The 117s already come with a high flow intake. I put a different filter on. Sure, it's different, but so different it's going to trash my engine... Again, there is not a mountain of evidence to support that.

And no, I'm not lugging the engine.

So you say I need a tune... I acknowledged that possibility... And then I simply asked for what else could cause it besides that? I fail to see why I should catch so much **** for wanting to look at all possibilities and not just one. Especially since that one doesn't have much cooberation and there are others more knowledgeable than me here that will disagree with you that not even a full stage one requires a tune to prevent your engine from eating itself. That is by no means a settled issue.

Right now, the dealership is trying to solve the issue, because they agree it's knock, and it's not my mods. If they can't find a problem they will have to put it on the dyno and fix it. So how exactly am I ignoring what you suggested?

So how do you diagnose a problem? Do you take the first thing someone tells you and throw money at it... Or do you like to understand the whole problem, rule out other possible causes, take advantage of free solutions when you can? Because that is all I've done here.

 

I am done trying to help as I said in my previous but have to point out that throughout the thread, you have displayed that you have no idea what you are talking about but when a suggestion has been made you respond like you do; that doesn't sit well with those trying to help. If you want to be accepted by other members and hang around, you will need to adjust your attitude.

Many have come to this forum looking for solutions because of low confidence in dealer techs or because dealer techs have not been able to solve their issue. With a willingness to listen to other forum members, ask questions, maybe going through a trial and error process to eliminate potential sources and having an honest back and forth dialogue, I have yet to see an issue that was not solved and I have been a member of this forum for nearly 20 years.

I do, as I am sure others do, wish you well on your journey with the dealer; it is aggravating to have a problem that interferes with riding the bike. BTW, dealers don't have the best track record when it comes to tuning.

 

Good god.... Right now, I have a warrantee. So right now... I explore that path. No, I don't have a lot of faith in dealers... ANY dealers. Quite the opposite. I ****ing despise them. But... I am still under warantee. My bike isn't even a year old. So I am willing to see, if they can fix it because it costs me nothing.

If I follow your solution... I throw my warranty in the trash. Because according to you, it needs a tune, and a tune voids it. So to you, my very first order of buisness should be to trash my warranty, and seek an indy that can tune my bike, and maybe or maybe not find other issues. And I'm a fool for not doing that and I should just listen to you.

Except, the dealer has a dyno... And if they can't find something defective, they will have to put it on the dyno... And if it's leaned out, they will have to do something about it... Because they have already agreed it's not my stuff, it's not lean, and it should not be running like that. Plenty other bikes they have modified more than mine don't knock at my altitude without a tune.

And because I choose to take that course of action, because it's available to me, and I dare to ask if there are any other possible causes... I have a shitty attitude. When I have already stated I am getting a tuner this winter. I am putting a full exhaust on. I might do a cam, but not sure. And then yes... I'm putting it on a dyno and getting a proper tune... But for now, I want to know if there is something else that is defective, because it's a new bike... And I want the MoCo to make it right if it is on them. And if not... I'm still doing EXACTLY WHAT YOU SUGGEST. As I have said many times.... And that deserves a lecture from you like I'm some school kid with a shitty attitude.

Ya, and I've been on enthusiast forums for over 20 years too. And I am plenty helpful on plenty others. This ain't my first rodeo. If you want your message recieved, and you want to be helpful, then maybe monitor how you respond. And if you can't take someone questioning you, well, don't be so thin skinned... It's how some of us learn. I'm doing exactly how you talk of... Trial and error to eliminate possible sources, questioning, listening acknowledging those suggestions, honest dialogue.... And yet I catch crap for it and get a lecture.

Thank you for all your help. I've taken every bit of it into consideration, and I will be sure to confirm if and when you are right. Because as I have said many times, you just might be.

 

If the bike ran good and didn't knock when it was completely stock, just put it back to stock configuration. Easy to do, no drama, problem solved.

I've lost count of how many threads go like this.
Hi, my bike was running great until I worked on it, and now it runs like ****. Can anyone help me?