Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
when i open these covere oil will be lost? or it pass inside pipes? For avoid leaks on floor.
You will have to move the footboard and exhaust, and yes put a pan under, half pint or so will come out, you can drape some foil over the frame rail to save some mess
The message is get in the motor ASAP and no more startup. These photos are worst case scenario. Usually the lifter roller starts to lock up and you hear the noise in your video. The roller skids on the cam, and if run too long or the lifter just gives out then you get a lot of damage.
I hope it's not what it is, but it sure sounds like it.
On the 110's they had lifter issues because of excess valve spring pressure.
Originally Posted by Schex
He did, doesn't sound good, I'm thinking like Lonewolf176, lifter issue.
Originally Posted by djl
My bad, I missed it. Definitely sounds like lash in the valve train to me.
Originally Posted by Ohio HD
Agree. I'd bet money that a lifter roller is ready to explode.
It's never pretty.
Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
Shouldn't even post these. Also pulling the cover on the side stand reduces the amount of oil and mess.
Originally Posted by Ohio HD
The message is get in the motor ASAP and no more startup. These photos are worst case scenario. Usually the lifter roller starts to lock up and you hear the noise in your video. The roller skids on the cam, and if run too long or the lifter just gives out then you get a lot of damage.
I hope it's not what it is, but it sure sounds like it.
Omg, im crying at the corner.
Ok ok, maybe lifter change will be the solution. Any method to check if valves are affected or visual inspection its enough? (see any scratches).
In this case, its necessary change lifters, valve train, pushrods..?
About the replacement, original or any reinforced aftermarket like S&S?
You can remove the cam cover, and see the outer tensioner, it's really hard to see the inner tensioner. But you also should be able to roll the motor over to listen for noises. If you don't see any issues there, then I would go after the lifters next.
See the photo below, you can't see the lifters or the cam with the camplate still installed. In order to remove the cam plate you have to remove the pushrods. So with the pushrods out, remove the tappet covers and you can lift out the lifters one at a time and look at them, check the roller for wear and tight spots when rolling. Also you can see the cam lobes with a small flashlight. If a lifter is damaged, the lobe will follow.
If you don't see lifter or lobe damage, you could then remove the camplate to inspect the inner cam bearings. I don't think it's likely that they are the sound, but at that point in disassembly you should look.
You can remove the cam cover, and see the outer tensioner, it's really hard to see the inner tensioner. But you also should be able to roll the motor over to listen for noises. If you don't see any issues there, then I would go after the lifters next.
See the photo below, you can't see the lifters or the cam with the camplate still installed. In order to remove the cam plate you have to remove the pushrods. So with the pushrods out, remove the tappet covers and you can lift out the lifters one at a time and look at them, check the roller for wear and tight spots when rolling. Also you can see the cam lobes with a small flashlight. If a lifter is damaged, the lobe will follow.
If you don't see lifter or lobe damage, you could then remove the camplate to inspect the inner cam bearings. I don't think it's likely that they are the sound, but at that point in disassembly you should look.
Thanks! I have a Endoscope camera, maybe it will help. As i saw, to take off lifters its not mandatory open distribuition cover.
My plan:
Open upper cover on cilinders, take off valve actioners, take out rocker bars? (im not sure how it means in English, long metallic bar and cover) and after that i can take out lifters and check? If i see damage on valves crankshaft continue opening distribution cover....
Your English is fine. Bettter than some Americans.
If you get anywhere close to the tensioner I would just change them, or better maybe upgrade the cam drive. I'm kinda forgetful but I think there's a gear drive system to drive the the cams. It's a common issue. 30,000 miles seems to be about the worse case I remember hearing about. It's best to check them every 30k or so. A broken tensioner can have a nasty outcome.
I've had two Twin Cams. One had 140,000 miles and one had 100,000 and I never had an issue but once i got to around 50,000 the tensioners got checked
Your English is fine. Bettter than some Americans.
If you get anywhere close to the tensioner I would just change them, or better maybe upgrade the cam drive. I'm kinda forgetful but I think there's a gear drive system to drive the the cams. It's a common issue. 30,000 miles seems to be about the worse case I remember hearing about. It's best to check them every 30k or so. A broken tensioner can have a nasty outcome.
I've had two Twin Cams. One had 140,000 miles and one had 100,000 and I never had an issue but once i got to around 50,000 the tensioners got checked
The OP has a 2007 twin cam, that has the hydraulic cam tensioners. The only thing that needs to be changed are the plastic tensioner shoes, if they are worn.
01-16-2024, 06:24 PM
