Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
[QUOTE=NM Pan-shovel;21650423]
I've been thinking of cutting the front pipe under the tranny and shifting the lower muffler down and forward (raising the oil filter--easy to do). That would eliminate two bends and make the header pipe closer to matching length. We'll see...
I've been thinking of cutting the front pipe under the tranny and shifting the lower muffler down and forward (raising the oil filter--easy to do). That would eliminate two bends and make the header pipe closer to matching length. We'll see...
PLEASE don`t !
Ah, you like the way those side-by-side shotgun pipes look, eh? Yeah, me too... per the other thread I've got going on the hydraulic clutch conversion, it's looking like that is going to work out without having to resort to the same measure, albeit for different reasons. I'll post today's photos on that thread shortly...
I figured out why it was running like a 3 legged dog. Only been sitting 3 weeks but the gunk build up on my needle/seat and jets was like gum. Dropped the bowl, sprayed some carby cleaner in the sprayed it dry with air. Put it back together. All running nicely. Though I think I did the clutch hub up a little tight. Backed off the Rivera nut and gave it several taps working around until it loosened. Retorqued it and took it for a ride. It loosened up and is getting easier to start each time. Think it needs a good long run to really seat everything. We have 3 different fuels at the pumps here in Australia. 91, 95 and 98 octane. Was told by the neighbour who has a heritage to use a higher octane. The **** 91 gums up easily. Still using the CV for the moment. Will put the hsr on eventually. I think getting those pipes as even as possible would be a help on your set-up. I have a RB2/1 LSR so virtually no back pressure 😀 The neighbour asked if it was a standard pipe. I told him yeah. It's how loud they were in the 70's 🤣
I figured out why it was running like a 3 legged dog. Only been sitting 3 weeks but the gunk build up on my needle/seat and jets was like gum. Dropped the bowl, sprayed some carby cleaner in the sprayed it dry with air. Put it back together. All running nicely. Though I think I did the clutch hub up a little tight. Backed off the Rivera nut and gave it several taps working around until it loosened. Retorqued it and took it for a ride. It loosened up and is getting easier to start each time. Think it needs a good long run to really seat everything. We have 3 different fuels at the pumps here in Australia. 91, 95 and 98 octane. Was told by the neighbour who has a heritage to use a higher octane. The **** 91 gums up easily. Still using the CV for the moment. Will put the hsr on eventually. I think getting those pipes as even as possible would be a help on your set-up. I have a RB2/1 LSR so virtually no back pressure 😀 The neighbour asked if it was a standard pipe. I told him yeah. It's how loud they were in the 70's 🤣
Hey, man, good news!
All due respect to your neighbor, I don't think octane level has anything to do with gumming up. That is, unless they're not adding detergent additives to the lower octane gas...? I could be wrong, but am fairly sure you're just looking at crappy quality gas at [x] station. I assume you're running the bike fairly often?
Regardless, here in New Mexico, USA, we don't have the fuel options you do Down Under. I burn premium, which here is 91 octane. Just fine for an 8:1 standard Shovel piston, though. I get easy starts and reasonably good manners at 5,000~6,000 ft., my normal running altitude. I'm sure it'd run a heck of a lot better at sea level though!
Finally got around to finishing the rear foot pegs for my once-and-future passenger(s). Came out great, with 1/8" clearance between the folded R/H peg and the exhaust heat shield.
When the peg is folded, the end of the mount is farther away from the arc of the kick start lever than the oil filter (I use a full-sized filter, not a shorty), which is a good thing because I now see that I forgot to radius the upper corners of the outer end. I'll hit them with a sander just in case, so I don't slip off and regret that decision...
This calls for a test ride of the new hydraulic clutch setup (another thread), regardless of whether I'm actually using the pegs! It's gorgeous today.
Well, the new hydraulic clutch works great--and I have to say that the bike is just running better and better as the miles creep up after the top end and tranny rebuild. I don't now if it's my imagination, but with those roller rockers all machined to .008" end play, the engine sounds dialed in. Just like it'd run all day at highway speed (65~70).
I think that I've finally gotten all the kinks worked out on this Pan-Shovel and am ready for some over-the-road trips!
Hey guys, I'm running a 25-tooth tranny sprocket and really like the final drive ratio for highway cruising. But I'm running a regular Diamond STD chain for clearance based on some reading I did while refurbishing the bike.
Does anyone have experience running an O-ring chain on a Panhead with a 25T tranny sprocket and tin primary cover? When this set wears out, I may go with an O-ring chain if it'll fit, as I must drive over dirt and gravel 1/4 mile from my house to the highway.
I didn't on mine but you may want to measure clearance between the chain and back of primary, I know mine was pretty close.
Yeah, thanks. I'm being lazy and trying to avoid somehow getting my fingers in there--hence hoping someone has tried putting an O-ring chain on with a 25-tooth sprocket.
In addition to lateral clearance, I'm also concerned about the radial clearance toward the front, against the tranny case.
04-18-2024, 01:55 PM
