NM, you do nice work. That is a right fine machine. Sounds great, too. Thanks for sharing the journey.

 

Thanks for the kind words. A journey is an apt description. It has been fully a year since I bought her and started things out by resealing the timing cover and oil pump, so I could limp home from the neighbor whose driveway is seen in the above post, and where she'd languished for 15 years. I think the only thing I didn't rebuild was the bottom end, as the rod bearings were within spec.

Anyway, I'll post some videos on the NM Pan-Shovel website linked above of the putts to the Mineshaft Tavern (in a pretty little artists community called Madrid) and El Cabezon, and later on up into the Ponderosa Pine forest northeast of Cuba, though she'll be running awfully rich at 9,000 ft...

 

A final word on the hybrid DIY front disc conversion.

The braking force is a bazillion times better than the original drum, with most stops a two-finger affair, and I'm satisfied with the look of the '83 tubes and 2000 sliders. Suspension travel is ample on the washboard dirt road leading to the two-lane blacktop. Ride height is unchanged, as the 41mm '83 tubes are less than 1/4" over in length.

I will say the only wrinkle is when you're performing the 'fall-off' test to set the steering stem bearing preload, it is necessary to temporarily unbolt the caliper and use mechanic's wire to hold it up above the headlight. Otherwise, the weight of the cast iron caliper created a left-hand bias that made it impossible to fine tune the preload. No biggie, as you don't need to disconnect the hydraulic hose or front brake light switch bolted to the underside of the triple tree.

I positioned the caliper a bit to the right-hand side above the headlight, to counter the remaining weight of the rotor and modified Harley spacer. But then it was easy-peasy to set the preload, with only the usual couple of retakes due to the top nut adding to the preload setting.

 

Sounds great, has that distinctive "whir" when revs coast down, means the bottom end is good

 

Oh, that's interesting--and good to know. Thanks for lending the careful ear and weighing in. Very reassuring!

 

Thank you.... Excellent job well done.. Looks and Sounds great.. Be safe Brother...

 

A closing word on the mousetrap clutch setup.

After studying the mechanism and reading lots of confusing threads, I think I've figured out a good way to describe the mousetrap setup's operational difference from a normal clutch as it bears on adjustment. I've never read or heard it explained this way, but it helps me understand the relationship of the mousetrap adjustment to the clutch adjustment screw, and demystifies the mechanism.

On a mousetrap setup, the clutch adjustment screw is merely used to position the clutch actuation lever--and friction point--at a certain position vis-a-vis the handlebar lever's limited range of motion. The manual says measure 4-1/4" from the rearmost edge of the round ratchet housing to the forward edge of the slot in the actuation lever (where the mousetrap rod passes through it).

Perhaps counterintuitively, therefore, after setting the actuation lever position at the above spec, the free-play of 1/16" (some say to allow a touch more), is set at the aft end of the mousetrap rod with the handlebar lever released and the mousetrap mechanism fully returned (the spec is that the top should be leaning forward 1/8" beyond TDC).

Technically, one could adjust the freeplay using the clutch hub adjustment screw, so as to make the actuation lever move forward and back on the mousetrap rod, rather than screwing the rod in or out of its forward end to create freeplay at its aft end. However, doing that would also change the position of the friction point vis-a-vis the handlebar lever's limited travel, and potentially bring it too close or too far away from the grip. So, Harley gives you the 4-1/4" spec for positioning the actuation lever that--assuming a clutch whose friction plates are not worn too thin, or springs that are not worn out or too long (like the ones the PO installed on my bike)--provides the baseline for then adjusting the mousetrap, during which you allow for sufficient free-play.

Hope that makes sense and helps someone else avoid damaging a throwout bearing or clutch adjustment screw.

 

Well, not quite the final word...

The mousetrap was binding a bit and occasionally would not return consistently. I disconnected the rod and checked the needle bearings, which I had replaced--no play or sticking. Double checked the adjustment--perfect. Then fiddled with the rod--bingo.

For reasons unclear to me, when the clutch is adjusted per specs the clutch actuation lever is beyond 90 degrees, with the result that the rod binds inside the hole in the lever. That hole is very close to the O.D. of the rod. So, I redrilled the hole and then massaged it with a small conical carbide die grinder... voila. The mousetrap rod (read that clutch) freeplay can be adjusted with a screwdriver in the end of the rod with zero effort, and the clutch can now be operated using one finger. Really nice.

Now, if I can just find time to ride her out to El Cabezon for some photos...

 

Nice, if you had that rod chrome plated that would account for the need of extra clearance.

 

Another common issue with the clutch arm is that it can drag on the battery base that goes under the horseshoe oil tank if battery base is aftermarket.. They generally need to be clearanced.