It seem like a good idea at the time..

 

Did something let go????

 

Clean up on aisle three!

 

I hold the filter straight up and use a air hammer with a panel cutter bit, might have to hold it sideways to get the bit penetrated, then hold it up, then I use a serrated knife to cut (saw) the element near the top and bottom and peal it off.

 

The filter did. Even tho I let it sit in the drain pan, it held oil in the OD of the filter due to anti-drainback valve. Spinning at 300 RPM, as soon as I cut through the canister, the end popped off and oil went everywhere..

 

The last one I did, I used a chain type exhaust tubing cutter.

 

Gotcha ya 👍....

 

These work good, with no metal added to the filter while cutting.

 

It's worth an update on this. The short answer is that the battery isn't what initially failed. It was the regulator.

During the original issue, I was running about a 35 mile loop. About 1/2 way through it, the engine light started flashing 5 times then stop then repeat. The bike has a DTT ignition and I don't remember what the code was but since the bike was still running, I figured that I'd head home. I stopped on the roadside and restarted the bike. Everything seemed normal but the light cams back.

Further down the road, the Speedometer started behaving weirdly. Indicated speed would go up and down and the odometer would blank out.. The tach wout stick at 3000 rpm. I stopped once more but this time on a hill. Hit the starter button and click, click, click.. I bumped started the bike down the hill and rode home.. Measure the battery voltage with the bike off and it reads 14.77 volts. Turn The ignition on and it dropped to 11.5. At that point I kind of new the battery was shot.. Ordered another. Yuasa GYZ. I checked the DTT instructions and 5 flashes is over voltage.. Wish I'd known that earlier as you'll see below..

I ordered the wrong battery, polls swapped but was able to reroute the wiring in another bike and pulled the battery from it.. Only 6 months old.. I started the bike and the battery voltage when right up to 14.3 volts and stayed there. SM say 14.3 to 14.7 at 3600 rpm. I figured everything was cool.

Started doing about a 100 mile loop.. Go to the top of Palomar Mountain and it started having issues again. They were the same as before. Crap. Coasted down the east grade with the lights on to drain some of the charge out of the battery. Ran it a little and the problem came back.. Did not want to toast the new battery so I unplugged the alternator and road home without issue.. The battery still had plenty of charge to start the bike. Put the battery on a 1.25 amp Battery Tender and ordered another regulator.. Battery seemed to revive just fine.

Went to Dennis Kirk and they were out of Cycle Electric so I''d expect that everyone was. Drag has one that got good reviews so I ordered it.. I installed it and checked the voltage again, goes right to 14.3 and stops.. Put 55 miles on it today and no issues.. I have a small battery tender voltmeter that plugs into a charge connector and after riding the battery voltage never went above 14.3 volts.

Picture of the regulator backs.. BTW, The alternator stator and rotor probably have less than 10000 miles on them.. It's not that the charging failed, the rotor center broke out and the stator leaked oil down the wires and into the connector where it dripped out..

 

This is the reason I like my Dakota Digital MVX-2000 speedometer.. It has a lot of accessories it can monitor.. Little pricey but a great upgrade..

https://www.partsgiant.com/p350465-d...saAm0jEALw_wcB

I also keep a spare charging system.. Don't carry it with me but if you have spares you normally won't have issues either . Call it Murphy, I guess.. Lol ..