that's about right might have slipped into 3500, but that was parts that would need to be changed anyway. The fuel pump was on the way out, and the clutch needed an upgrade, just went with a spring. Once the motor was opened up I was about to have some real issues with the piston and cylinders. That's neither here nor there. I think the thought I have is this, it's going to cost about a 1,000 to go from a 90-100hp build to a 115-120hp. So from the beginning that the difference. If you go down the cheaper rabbit hole and then change your mind its an additional 3500. so now you looking at spending 6,000 total for both builds and hope you can recoup some from the sale of parts. So if you questioning being happy long term with a smaller build you can save a lot of money going for higher-end parts. I could have saved 250 by sending my heads in, but they had already been worked and could not be used (this is money saved it you went higher-end out of the hole) I could have saved 300 dollars by having my cylinders bored and using high-end pistons. so with that in mind, you can see move saved if in the beginning.

one big lesson here for me. I asked the wrong questions, as I see many people do. "what size more should I do? 95, 98, 100 inch?" the better question comes into what is being used to build the BB kit? it's worth the extra money to get top of the line pistons with tight ring land and light thin rings built with long-lasting coating than go cheap and end up with thick heavy rings a piston pin running through the oil ring land. it's best to get into the details of the bore kit and know what you are getting and not go cheap. One final note, do not trust the pre-assembled pistons, that already have the rings ground to fit, are right. Check them, I don't care if there were sent from heaven by angels, Check them. pre-assembled can save time and frustration, just don't skip the inspection process.

the learning curve is steep and money saved can easily be money wasted if one chooses the wrong path. I put a lot of miles on and ride the bike hard for a long period of time above 3,000 rpm stand point. I cannot afford inferior parts, if it was just a bar hopper and a few thousand miles a year, its probably ok.

 

Nice build, impressive numbers. Been following your thread over on HTT also. Seems like your research paid off. Rebuilding my bagger engine this winter, going 95ci and would be dreaming to get anywhere near those numbers haha. Bet that dyna of yours rips.
Hello from central Ark.

 

hey man, being from Arkansas you know why it was built like this, lots of rpm for the corners of Arkansas. Some of the best roads in the nation. It does run very well being in a Dyna.

 

Hey djl,

Been about 5 years since we last bantered about pipes (Bassani Pro Streets vs D&D Fatcat). Looks like you have changed your mind re: the Pro Streets? 😉

Dave