My engine build
#11
when speaking with kirby, i told him about the mountain road of the sierra nevadas, but I also like riding to the coast and east through the desert....its what he recommended. A brother I ride with here in Reno had that cam in his fat boy and he loved it.
Related, my parcel was supposed to be delivered on friday, but now ups is saying monday...
Related, my parcel was supposed to be delivered on friday, but now ups is saying monday...
585 cams will work great,"flatlander cam" (????),also if you have a line on a 55mm t body,that will work fine as long as it has 1.800 runners(if not 1.800,1.760 minimum)
#12
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prodrag1320 (02-01-2020)
#13
#14
#15
#16
wiith .006 runout,id seriously consider getting the F/Ws rebuilt.the factory moved the spec to .012 so the wouldnt have to warrantee tons of 67 up F/Ws,but at around .006 up will start damaging oil pumps
#17
wiith .006 runout,id seriously consider getting the F/Ws rebuilt.the factory moved the spec to .012 so the wouldnt have to warrantee tons of 67 up F/Ws,but at around .006 up will start damaging oil pumps.plus the build we`re doing sure as hell isnt going to help a already messed up set of FWs
Last edited by prodrag1320; 02-10-2020 at 06:33 AM.
#18
#19
Yeah, I was not planning on splitting the cases (down time time and money!)
timkin conversion, balancing, H-B rods etc can get close to 2k in extra stuff (cheddar that would be taken from other parts of the project, that I don't really have nor told the accountant about yet) I understand the reasons and theory behind it all, but what do I really NEED here? If I split the cases and send my crank in for a true, plug and weld, install the lefty bearings, I will be aight, right? Sometimes I like to ride er hard, but I don't beat on it every day all day...I want to be practical, but I also dont want to be tearing it down again in a few thousand miles. Thanks for the advice.
timkin conversion, balancing, H-B rods etc can get close to 2k in extra stuff (cheddar that would be taken from other parts of the project, that I don't really have nor told the accountant about yet) I understand the reasons and theory behind it all, but what do I really NEED here? If I split the cases and send my crank in for a true, plug and weld, install the lefty bearings, I will be aight, right? Sometimes I like to ride er hard, but I don't beat on it every day all day...I want to be practical, but I also dont want to be tearing it down again in a few thousand miles. Thanks for the advice.
#20
Yeah, I was not planning on splitting the cases (down time time and money!)
timkin conversion, balancing, H-B rods etc can get close to 2k in extra stuff (cheddar that would be taken from other parts of the project, that I don't really have nor told the accountant about yet) I understand the reasons and theory behind it all, but what do I really NEED here? If I split the cases and send my crank in for a true, plug and weld, install the lefty bearings, I will be aight, right? Sometimes I like to ride er hard, but I don't beat on it every day all day...I want to be practical, but I also dont want to be tearing it down again in a few thousand miles. Thanks for the advice.
timkin conversion, balancing, H-B rods etc can get close to 2k in extra stuff (cheddar that would be taken from other parts of the project, that I don't really have nor told the accountant about yet) I understand the reasons and theory behind it all, but what do I really NEED here? If I split the cases and send my crank in for a true, plug and weld, install the lefty bearings, I will be aight, right? Sometimes I like to ride er hard, but I don't beat on it every day all day...I want to be practical, but I also dont want to be tearing it down again in a few thousand miles. Thanks for the advice.
New motor is higher compression, makes 114TQ/115HP so with that kind of power, I doubt the OEM crank at .0045" run out would have lasted. Like I said, a crap shoot; how lucky do you feel?