Looking to jump into the cam chest on my 2004 Train to change out the cam chain tensionsers (I have put about 20,000KMs on the bike since owning) and I feel like while I am there I should upgrade. I would like to preface that I have built multiple engines myself for my drag car, so getting my hands dirty is no problem for me. I have an 05' road glide with cams and heads that I bought that way, and my biggest gripe is just the fact that it runs HOT, something I dont want for my Train especially since I do a lot of city riding with it (and yes it is tuned correctly).

Currently, it has Vance and Hines Big Radius 2 into 1 and a fuel moto piggyback tuner. I would like to skip the stock chain tensioner replacement all together and go with hydraulic, or even gears to eliminate that worry completely. I have looked at cams for upgrade, and see various opinions on Andrews, S&S, and Screamin Eagle stuff. I want cams that I can use stock valve springs with (I dont want to go into the heads, and if I have to I will just skip this for now and address tensioners only) and will give me some better low end grunt even using stock heads.

If there is a complete kit out there that would give me everything I need, I am all ears! I saw this one just browsing, and I have read how the 510's are a good entry level cam with otherwise stock engines, but what parts am I miss for my upgrade besides pushrods? It says I need valve springs and to check PTV but as I mentioned, I want to avoid that.
https://www.denniskirk.com/s-and-s-c...prd/148883.sku

Any input and experience is welcome!

 

Check your crank TIR before you consider gear drive.

 

Not sure what TIR means, but are you referring to a runout spec on the crank? If its out of spec, then the gear drive is not a good idea I imagine.

 

Correct.
Runout should be .0035 or less.

 

Total indicator runout

https://blog.mtiwelding.com/what-is-tir

 

I ran the 510G`s with an otherwise stock 88" engine for 40K miles, very linear power delivery and "seemed" to run smoother at highway speeds . No complaints.

Recently removed in combination with 98" upgrade, ported heads and 570G`s

Sifton has an improved volume oil pump for under $140

JMO

 

thanks, I'll check out the link.

looks like I cant really plan for gear driven stuff until I check out the run out spec. That said, I want to know my other options as well.

In your opinion, was the cam swap worth it? I'm going in to check out my tensioners, and figured while there adding some extra power couldn't hurt (my roadglide has given me the itch, shes a monster).

Goijg with new cams, did you do lifters, adjustable p-rods, oil pump as well? Stock tensioner setup?

Is swapping to an updated camp late with hydraulic tensioner worth it if not going with gear drive? I've been doing some searching, but having difficult finding opinions on this stuff

 

I thought the 510 swap was well worth the effort , changed nothing other than cams and bearings at that time.

On the 570 upgrade I did replace lifters and oil pump , I`m still using the stock 1 piece pushrods

 

I just tore into my TC, wanting to replace the lifters. Ended up going with an entire S&S cam chest. If you are in there replacing cams, I would definitely consider doing the lifters at the same time. And if you stay with chain, then the hydraulic tensioner would be a good idea.

 

JMHO but suggest that the OP save himself some $$ and pass on a gear drive or hydraulic conversion and replace the inner/outer cam bearings and tensioners with a set of CYCO tensioners. IMHO, for a cam upgrade to a Stage I motor, the cost/benefit is just not there for a bolt in cam upgrade to a Stage I motor. The early OEM cam plate/pump is quite adequate and the only thing the OP might do is add the Baisley spring for the oil pressure relief valve and perhaps polish up the piston.

Again, JMHO but the 510 cam is not the best choice for a Stage I TC88; the 509 would be a better choice. IIRC, 2004 models were running the "B" lifter, a Delphi unit and the best lifter the MoCo produced and at 12K miles, no need to replace. Additionally, IIRC, the S&S 509 cam has the same base circle as OEM cams, so unless the OP just wants adjustable push rods, there is no need to change. I happen to like adjustable push rods as they allow some flexibility to adjust for valve train noise.

The money the OP can save by keeping things simple would pay for a Power Vision tune; much better than the piggy back tuner. There is no substitute for a proper dyno tune.