2004 Twin Cam 88- Cams and Gear Drive?
#11
As usual djl is providing sound advice
my back story: back in 02 my friend and I had 99 models and his spit out broken needles from the inner cam bearings and the shoes were quite worn. The outer bearings “appeared” to be fine. Given the understanding of this problem back then we blamed the entire chain drive set up and were determined to eliminate future issues. Ordered 2 510g. Kits and installed. Unknown if 509s were available at that time. Both bikes ran better and seemed to labor less above 4K rpm with a slight increase in power. Smoother less “tight”
mine ran fine until my recent upgrade to compensate for taller 2:88 final drive
my friends performed well for 6 years before he succumbed to prostate cancer
we cleaned and rinsed his cases but did not split the cases
my back story: back in 02 my friend and I had 99 models and his spit out broken needles from the inner cam bearings and the shoes were quite worn. The outer bearings “appeared” to be fine. Given the understanding of this problem back then we blamed the entire chain drive set up and were determined to eliminate future issues. Ordered 2 510g. Kits and installed. Unknown if 509s were available at that time. Both bikes ran better and seemed to labor less above 4K rpm with a slight increase in power. Smoother less “tight”
mine ran fine until my recent upgrade to compensate for taller 2:88 final drive
my friends performed well for 6 years before he succumbed to prostate cancer
we cleaned and rinsed his cases but did not split the cases
#12
As usual djl is providing sound advice
my back story: back in 02 my friend and I had 99 models and his spit out broken needles from the inner cam bearings and the shoes were quite worn. The outer bearings “appeared” to be fine. Given the understanding of this problem back then we blamed the entire chain drive set up and were determined to eliminate future issues. Ordered 2 510g. Kits and installed. Unknown if 509s were available at that time. Both bikes ran better and seemed to labor less above 4K rpm with a slight increase in power. Smoother less “tight” mine ran fine until my recent upgrade to compensate for taller 2:88 final drive, my friends performed well for 6 years before he succumbed to prostate cancer we cleaned and rinsed his cases but did not split the cases
my back story: back in 02 my friend and I had 99 models and his spit out broken needles from the inner cam bearings and the shoes were quite worn. The outer bearings “appeared” to be fine. Given the understanding of this problem back then we blamed the entire chain drive set up and were determined to eliminate future issues. Ordered 2 510g. Kits and installed. Unknown if 509s were available at that time. Both bikes ran better and seemed to labor less above 4K rpm with a slight increase in power. Smoother less “tight” mine ran fine until my recent upgrade to compensate for taller 2:88 final drive, my friends performed well for 6 years before he succumbed to prostate cancer we cleaned and rinsed his cases but did not split the cases
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Dwroberts54 (01-30-2022)
#13
I just tore into my TC, wanting to replace the lifters. Ended up going with an entire S&S cam chest. If you are in there replacing cams, I would definitely consider doing the lifters at the same time. And if you stay with chain, then the hydraulic tensioner would be a good idea.
JMHO but suggest that the OP save himself some $$ and pass on a gear drive or hydraulic conversion and replace the inner/outer cam bearings and tensioners with a set of CYCO tensioners. IMHO, for a cam upgrade to a Stage I motor, the cost/benefit is just not there for a bolt in cam upgrade to a Stage I motor. The early OEM cam plate/pump is quite adequate and the only thing the OP might do is add the Baisley spring for the oil pressure relief valve and perhaps polish up the piston.
Again, JMHO but the 510 cam is not the best choice for a Stage I TC88; the 509 would be a better choice. IIRC, 2004 models were running the "B" lifter, a Delphi unit and the best lifter the MoCo produced and at 12K miles, no need to replace. Additionally, IIRC, the S&S 509 cam has the same base circle as OEM cams, so unless the OP just wants adjustable push rods, there is no need to change. I happen to like adjustable push rods as they allow some flexibility to adjust for valve train noise.
The money the OP can save by keeping things simple would pay for a Power Vision tune; much better than the piggy back tuner. There is no substitute for a proper dyno tune.
Again, JMHO but the 510 cam is not the best choice for a Stage I TC88; the 509 would be a better choice. IIRC, 2004 models were running the "B" lifter, a Delphi unit and the best lifter the MoCo produced and at 12K miles, no need to replace. Additionally, IIRC, the S&S 509 cam has the same base circle as OEM cams, so unless the OP just wants adjustable push rods, there is no need to change. I happen to like adjustable push rods as they allow some flexibility to adjust for valve train noise.
The money the OP can save by keeping things simple would pay for a Power Vision tune; much better than the piggy back tuner. There is no substitute for a proper dyno tune.
The bike has about 80,000Kms on it (not sure what that is in miles, maybe 45,000?) so I want to do tensioners. Is there really no benefit going the hydraulic tensioner route? I don't mind changing just the shoes if thats adequate, but I thought it was the design itself that made this tensioner setup somewhat unreliable?
Also, going with the 510's, even if that should be a bit over camming for the motor, am I good to still just replace the shoes, do the cams, lifters, and adjustable pushrods? I don't 2 up with this bike much, I will be honest, its a bit of my around town hot rod and I am not easy on the throttle, so having a bit of mush down low won't bug me too much if it'll be a bit more of a screamer up top. What ya think? Are there other cams comparable to the 510 that would be a better option?
Thanks for all the advice so far fellas!
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#17
Originally Posted by mshred
To use stock pushrods with the 570, did that require heads being off to get the new ones in? That is what I originally wanted to do, have a bit of a stronger base in there for a cubic inch upgrade later on, but crank runout will need to be checked first if I decide to go that route still.
Originally Posted by mshred
The bike has about 80,000Kms on it (not sure what that is in miles, maybe 45,000?) so I want to do tensioners. Is there really no benefit going the hydraulic tensioner route? I don't mind changing just the shoes if thats adequate, but I thought it was the design itself that made this tensioner setup somewhat unreliable?
Originally Posted by mshred
Also, going with the 510's, even if that should be a bit over camming for the motor, am I good to still just replace the shoes, do the cams, lifters, and adjustable pushrods? I don't 2 up with this bike much, I will be honest, its a bit of my around town hot rod and I am not easy on the throttle, so having a bit of mush down low won't bug me too much if it'll be a bit more of a screamer up top. What ya think? Are there other cams comparable to the 510 that would be a better option?
EDIT: Andrews 26 would be another cam option.
Last edited by djl; 12-10-2019 at 03:39 PM.
#18
#19
.510" lift is about the limit for the '04 valve springs, so forget the 570 for this application. Furthermore, even if the 570 lift would work, it is never a good idea to select a cam based on future modifications; cam selection should match up with the existing components.
The problem with the early OEM tensioners was the tensioner material, Delron. It was not designed to hold up well under the constant tension from the spring loaded carriers and exposure to heat and oil. The CYCO tensioners are a different material and are designed to operate under those conditions. Replace the OEM tensioner pad with CYCO and check them every 20K miles or so.
Short answer is yes; replace the shoes with CYCO, intall the 510 cams, replace inner and outer cam bearings, and no need for adjustable push rods with the 510 cam but your call. I like adjustable push rods for the flexibility of setting preload to minimize valve train noise. I still like the 509 and the SE204 would work well also; the SE204 is a very underrated cam IMHO. Good luck with the project.
EDIT: Andrews 26 would be another cam option.
The problem with the early OEM tensioners was the tensioner material, Delron. It was not designed to hold up well under the constant tension from the spring loaded carriers and exposure to heat and oil. The CYCO tensioners are a different material and are designed to operate under those conditions. Replace the OEM tensioner pad with CYCO and check them every 20K miles or so.
Short answer is yes; replace the shoes with CYCO, intall the 510 cams, replace inner and outer cam bearings, and no need for adjustable push rods with the 510 cam but your call. I like adjustable push rods for the flexibility of setting preload to minimize valve train noise. I still like the 509 and the SE204 would work well also; the SE204 is a very underrated cam IMHO. Good luck with the project.
EDIT: Andrews 26 would be another cam option.
I will have to look into these CYCO tensioner shoes. Forgive my ignorance, but I am going to assume that is a brand name?
My only reason for even wanting to go adjustable pushrods is for less labour removing things...To me, this is a Harley, not a drag car motor like I am used to where pushrod length was crucial in making power and not eating the engine up, so valvetrain noise does not bother me lol
Im going to look into those milder grinds that you mentioned....out of the 3, which is your preference? (509, Andrews, SE)
Thanks for all the advice and insight guys, I needed this kinda direction
#20
Originally Posted by mshred
]Does the gas tank need to come off though to remove and reinstall rocker boxes? Rocker breather elements? I didn't even know there was such a thing, I will look into that! Thanks!
Originally Posted by mshred
How did you find the S&S 509 cam, noticeable bump in power from stock? (even if small)
Originally Posted by mshred
I will have to look into these CYCO tensioner shoes. Forgive my ignorance, but I am going to assume that is a brand name?
My only reason for even wanting to go adjustable pushrods is for less labour removing things...To me, this is a Harley, not a drag car motor like I am used to where pushrod length was crucial in making power and not eating the engine up, so valvetrain noise does not bother me lol
Im going to look into those milder grinds that you mentioned....out of the 3, which is your preference? (509, Andrews, SE)
My only reason for even wanting to go adjustable pushrods is for less labour removing things...To me, this is a Harley, not a drag car motor like I am used to where pushrod length was crucial in making power and not eating the engine up, so valvetrain noise does not bother me lol
Im going to look into those milder grinds that you mentioned....out of the 3, which is your preference? (509, Andrews, SE)
https://twincamtensioner.com/