Hi guys. First, apologies for asking something I'm sure has been asked before, but after spending a few HOURS browsing forums trying to find a simple answer to this:
I need to change tensioners out on my 2003 road king.
I'm planning on going with the 25284-11, SE hydraulic tensioner /oil pump upgrade.
I am planning to order the spacer kit, 25285-08.
I am planning on cutting the stock pushrods.
What PN are the SE adjustables?
What other parts am I going to need to do this? Since I'm not going through the top, do I need the 17045-99D cam installation kit? If not, aren't there a few o-rings I need?
What about outer bearings?
I am planning to re-use my stock cams.

For tools, other parts, I am planning to order a cam bearing installer/puller from here:
http://mbsmfg.com/harley-davidson-tw...r-puller-tc88/
Also ordering the torrington bearings from there as well.
I'm gonna use ebay for the gear jammer and the lifter magnets.

What else will I need?

 

I would say "yes" to the 17045-99D cam install kit as it includes the gaskets and o-rings necessary for the install as well as the inner/outer cam bearings and exhaust gaskets IIRC. You should pass on the provided inner cam bearings and use the Torringtons. The PN for the SE Quick Install Tapered push rods is 18404-08 and includes the push rods, clips and o-rings necessary. You will only need one spacer, if any at all, from the spacer kit, so you could wait to measure and get the one spacer you need but that will delay completing the project, so you are going to have a handful of spacers left over that will never be used. You really don't need the cam sprocket lock; put the trans in 1st and lock down the rear brake to break the pinion and rear cam bolts loose as they are only torqued to 35# and 25#.

You might consider replacing the OEM head breathers with the later "stamped" breathers, PN 17025-03A; more efficient and makes the R/R of the rear head breather (you will experience this) much easier. The PN includes the breather and bolts; you cannot use the OEM bolts with the new breathers. If your lifters have more than 35K miles on them, you might consider replacing them as well. The lifter cover gaskets are included in the cam install kit. If you retain the OEM lifters, mark them and return them to their respective bores.

Check crank runout while you have the cam chest open; good to know for future reference. If funds are available, why keep the OEM cams? Andrews 21 or S&S 509 would be a nice upgrade.

 

From what I heard, I thought you didn't need the cam install kit if you were cutting the push rods? Can't you buy whatever O rings/gaskets you need separately? The only reason I ask is because that kit is around $100. Seems really steep for some o rings and gaskets.

 

Other then it's truely not an upgrade since in leaves the original link chain on the inner cam. It's really not so bad as long as it wears like original spring pressure one did, no big deal.
However , numerous cases on here, people report back higher shoe wear on inner tensioner with the link chain and hydraulic tensioner.
I have some pictures of what you are discribeing going through the inner shoe pretty quick.
Money wise for a bike that old, check oil pressure before tear down. If good, replace shoes, oil pump gaskets and inspect or replace inner cam bearings.
That and misc gasket should be under $300. Will probably last life of bike. Be just like new stock.

 

 

I answered the OPs question under the assumption that he has decided to replace the OEM cam plate, for whatever reason, with the referenced SE billet plate, which IMHO and in spite of the fact that Ripsaw continues to throw shade at that particular modification because the inner link chain is retained. I have and have seen pictures as well but do not believe the hydraulic pressurized tensioner is under near the same pressure as is on the OEM spring loaded tensioner. Too many have completed this modification with no issues. Some have made this modification but replaced the HD tensioners in the kit with the CYCO tensioners, which IMHO, enhances the upgrade.

Having said that, Mattbastard's suggestion to retain the OEM cam plate, assuming it and the pump are in serviceable condition, replace the inner/outer cam bearing, the required o-rings and necessary gaskets is also an option to be considered as well but that's not what the OP asked. Spending less on the refreshing the cam chest leaves some to be spent on a bolt in cam upgrade as well.

Yes,you can buy the individual o-rings and gaskets separately but you also have to buy the other parts included in the kit, i.e., inner/outer cam bearings, exhaust gaskets, lifter cover gaskets, So, to answer your question, list out the parts you need, price them separately, compare the cost and buy them any way you want. Even if you cut the push rods, you will still remove the rocker box covers to insure that the push rod is seated properly in the rocker arm? If you upgrade the head breathers, the rocker box cover has to come off anyway. Decide what you want to do, do the homework and make a decision.

 

I ended up removing the pushrods and got an entire cam change kit on amazon for $30 with good gaskets not junk ones. Dont give your money to harley to fix something that they caused. If i went hydraulic i wouldve bough fueling. I did gear drive instead though

 

 

The OEM chain had burrs on some of the links from the manufacturer, Morris Chain, Morris NY.
Once "run it" and polished from friction, the burrs are virtually gone, allowing long chain shoe life at that point.
Us, knowing this, simply replace the shoes with Cyco shoes, and install a Zipper oil pressure shim.
And "as long as you're in there", install either an S&S .509, or our favorite, an Andrews 21, in a 88".
Cam plate money still in the wallet, and you are good to go.
Many options, this is ours.
Scott

 

I just did this service to my bike. I have a 103 cvo twin cam. I kept the original se 259 cams im happy with them. I second the notion to use the torrington inner bearings as i did since your in there anyway. I replaced my pushrods with adjustable but i used s&s this time. I know a few that have gone the other route through the top of the motor but its more labor intensive to remove the tank, etc. But you retain the old pushrods.

@Matt bastard i know also of people that have just replaced the shoes like you talk about and left the spring loaded tensioners. Some have gotten away with it others have not. Its a gamble. If one day it goes and busts up it may clog up the oil pump and grenade the entire motor. Thats why for me it was just piece of mind. For what the upgrade costs it beats spending thousands on a new motor