Thanks Lo. The link takes me to the FM page, but not a particular pst. Good page for sure, but was there a particular post you were trying to pass along?

 

[QUOTE=djl;17678991Happy to send you the map via email if you want to PM your email address.[/QUOTE]

Private message sent

 

There was one about break in that I thought was relevant to your situation

 

Found it, and it's a good read: Thanks.

hopefully, since I've already been on the dyno once, my tune is good. I had previously said that the tuner didn't touch the timing tables, but I was wrong. He made adjustments to both ends of the RPM range, but left the middle ranges alone.

Since the table for both cylinders is identical, and since the mid RPM ranges aren't touched, his timing changes clearly are something he does from experience rather than from actually tuning and would have no impact on my overheating issue.

 

that is a VERY generic timing map, and probably no where near correct for your engine,,,,,i would bet that most of your issues are coming from timing being to far advanced in the mid ranges, base on the idea that you are running an HD stage 1 download, that was built for a low compression 88 inch, not a hi comp 100 inch engine with head work, you definitely need your timing tables addressed.
m..

 

Marco, agreed.

And once I've validated my a/f tune, my plan is to street tune my timing from idle through 3000 RPM, particularly to see how that affects cylinder head temp.

My plan is to add two degrees of timing at cruise RPMs, do a test run while listening for detonation, and check CHT to see what effect it`s had. Then repeat the process until I encounter detonation, and then take out a couple of degrees. Shouldn't that process eliminate timing-related overheating?

I'm not concerned about *optimizing* the timing right now. All I want to do is get to the bottom of the over-heating issue, and get the timing close enough to get 1000 miles on the clock and then it'll go back on the dyno for the 2nd session I've already paid for.

For those of you who think I should just take that 2nd session now, know that I am *strongly* opposed to doing that unless it's utterly impossible to set ignition timing well enough to ride without doing damage. As I understand it, what I've described above is essentially the same process a tuner would employ on a dyno, except he'd be optimizing for power output at the same time. I don't need optimized power during break-in.

 

I see you fall into the large group of people around this forum that believe a dyno is only for all out power. This is not true

 

No, I just think that my wallet isn't bottomless and I don't want to drop another $400 for a 3rd dyno session if I can ballpark my timing on the street, then use my pre-paid 2nd dyno session to dial it in after 1,000 miles. I'm already into this built over eight grand because of the first failure.

NOT doing an "easy" brake-in technically would violate my S & S warranty. I know a lot of people here believe dyno break-ins are the way to go (including Fuel Moto), and I'm not standing here telling any of them that they are wrong. But if you had an experience like mine *and* the manufacturer of your pistons and cylinders says "tune that way and you'll void your warranty", then you might see things differently.

 

You been told that u should take timeing down and you plan to add, I don't understand why you would do this .why not do the negative -3 across the board to see if that helps your temps, then you can add slowly in some areas for power and miliage down the road

 

I have been thinking the same thing, and will do that this weekend.