Can i use s&s cylinders when going this route? What other options for 107 4.00x4.125 besides rev performance?

im stuck on building this motor. Exploring ALL options.

 

Yes on the S&S cylinders.

What's the reason for the build? I will say this: Go as big as you can. If you're building an all bore 107, you'll probably need/want the lower end looked at too. After spending the money to bring the 4" crank up to speed, you would probably have been better served with a 4.375 or 4.625 arm from S&S too. It's only another $1400.

I know it's easy to spend other people's money, but I wish I would have gone that route when I did a top end on my 95".... I had 85,000 miles on it and was going 98". Found out that the rods were out of play, so I just had it taken down to the bottom and had the crank bulletproofed. Cost me half of what a bigger crank would have been.

Just sharing my thoughts. That being said, I really, really like my AB 107. Does 120HP and 130TQ with a too small 50MM TB.

 

I love my all bore 107. My 107 is carbureted and my numbers fall a bit short of rhuff's but an all bore 107" motor is a lot of fun; very responsive and torquey with that short stroke. The bike is an '02 FLHT and I did have the crank addressed; checked for serviceability, trued, balanced and welded by Hoban Brothers. Were I to do it again, I would very likely replaced the 4" crank with a 4.375" crank and built a 117" motor. Having said that, the top end is starting to tire; last leak down was 10% front and rear; not that bad but an excuse to rebuild the top end, replace the ported 88/96 head with a set of ported 110 heads, replace the CV44 with a 51 and go longer on cams. At this point, I would not consider going into the bottom end.

I will advise that the OP should compare the weight of the new pistons with the weight of the OEM 88" piston and if there is much of a variance, pull the crank and have it serviced and balanced to the new piston regardless of whether building a 107 or a 117. The suggestion is made based on past experience.

 

S&S can and will manufacture the dedicated length you need for a 4.125" bore, 107".
Plenty of power, built correctly.
Axtell Sales, may be another option.
IF, the crank needs attention, then an S&S 4.375" arm, might be a thought?
At that point, all off shelf S&S product, w/o any additional custom manufacturing costs.
Just sent another 117" home last week.....2015 RG.....134 ft/lbs, 139 hp.
Scott

 

I know the 4.375 flywheel is worth the $$$ compared to repairing the 4.000 wheel. I guess im chasing the experience.

4.000 stroke x 4.125 bore. High comp 11.0+/- with a set of worked 110 heads. I just think it will be 1 hell of a combo and fun to ride.

now the cam is the next thing. I have s&s 585 in my 95. Im wondering how that 625 will do.

any suggestions on cam?

 

How many miles did it take to do that?

 

A Wood 9B might be of consideration. 10.8, 10.9.
Scott

 

The answer is not straight forward and a long story so I will give the short answer. This was the fourth and successful top end rebuild of this motor. Two previous top ends with Axtell cylinders that would not maintain a straight bore, a third 104" rebuild with OEM 4.060" cylinders and new MTC pistons ran great but the pistons were so much lighter than the JE pistons the crank was balanced to the motor developed a nasty vibration between 2800 and 3200 rpms revving up and down; bike was unrideable. So, what to do at this point.

I ordered a set of MTC cylinders with a bore diameter of 4.080" and measured the set of original JE 4.125" pistons with 1000 miles on them which were part of the original 107" kit from Axtell. The pistons were scuffed up a bit but checked out dimensionally. The MTC cylinders were supposed to be bored to fit the forged JE pistons with .0025" clearance but I suspect they were setup a tad looser. Rebuild completed at 27K miles, leakdown checked at 29K miles was 7%F/9%R; would have expected better but motor made 124TQ/110HP, using very little oil and ran cool and quiet, so no worries but that is when I suspected that the cylinder boring might have been a tad loose or the scuffed pistons, although measured in spec, were moving around. Fast forward to 3700 miles and leakdown is now 9%-10% both front and rear; the variance is gauge accuracy. So, front cylinder leakdown has increased but rear is hanging in there. Oil consumption is up to about a quart every 3500-4000 miles and CCP is holding from day one, so I can live with it.

Like I said in my previous, I am looking for an excuse to rebuild the top end and, so far, this is the only justification for the $$ on a perfectly decent running motor.

 

If you have the time, save for an aftermarket set of Flywheels... Start with a nice foundation. Do it once and be done.

 

The OEM crank worked over by Hoban Brothers is a suitable foundation and will get the job done as well.