Hey Guys,

Within the near future I will replace cam tensioners on a 2001 Ultra Classic with 32K miles. I see aftermarket parts selling on eBay, and wish to know if anyone has installed replacement tensioners other than HD parts that may last a bit longer.

FYI – Not interested in spending extra $$$ on cam gears or a hydraulic conversion … Thanks

 

I think this is what you're looking for.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...20k-miles.html

 

This a complete kit:
http://www.solenbergperf.com/apps/we...s/show/4854856
And here are just the shoes.

 

Wow, that was fast ... Thank You both

 

has anyone used the teflon ones in a kit from mcspareparts.com?

 

The cyco has been proven by a reliable source to go 20k. However, you do need to rebuild your spring assembly y removing rivet.
You have 32k on a 2001. At that rate, you may not out live what ever you do. That is my case anyway. My 2004 has 50k on it with original shoes. I had been looking for a better choice but I figured I will probably just use OEM since my springs are that old also.
The link chain never stops wearing. The roller chain does after the outer links groove in. But that delrin type of plastic shoe should actually be replaced ever 10 years for sure since hot oil hardens it and they will crack.

I am sure like you in the fact that it is silly to upgrade. And truthfully, there is none. Unless you go roller chain front and back. To do that requires cams.
Be sure to put a Gage on your oil pressure and check that before tearing down. Also, take a look at those inner camshaft bearings.

And align that oil pump up correctly. It is not dowelled. Odd design but Harley has a lot of tolerance in the crank run-out on the chain sprocket. So they make you align to what you have.

 

All of the above but I wouldn't cut the pushrods and install adjustables, not the first trip in anyway. The first time I go in I replace the rocker box breathers and enlarge the oil return hole. The newer breathers are like 12 bucks each. Stock pushrods are re-used because they come out the top. Not really as much work as you think.

 

Thanks Guys,

My first time digging this deep into a twin cam so a bit nervous. Will need to buy proper tools for aligning the oil pump.

Ripsaw – “However, you do need to rebuild your spring assembly y removing rivet"

I'm unsure what spring assembly you are referring to. Part of the cam chain tensioner or relief spring within the oil pump? Unfortunately, bike is now partially disassembled and I can’t confirm the oil pressure at this time.

Nomadmax – Yes, I will be going in through the top … been there done that before on other bikes, plus the front rocker box is leaking bad.

FYI … this is a budget bike I bought just after the holidays. Chained to a utility pole the past year after owner past away. Removing the Tour-Pak for some weight loss and will use for putting around the beach. Before pics attached.

 

The rivet that holds the rubbing block on the original tensioner on the chain tensioner.
Leave the oil pressure relief spring alone. TCs are designed to only have 30 or so oil pressure. At idle, it's only about 10. The oil injectors at the cylinder base are for cooling. However they do not work till about 18 lb oil pressure so they do not spray at idle to keep oil from cooking when air is not flowing on engine. Do not bump oil pressure.
If you have the precision measuring tools, you can measure the oil pump wear. Will need a service manual to know the tolerance.( Basically the end face wears allow oil to leak by) You are probably fine if that face groove looks less then a sheet of paper and the actual rotors are smooth. If you pull pump apart, replace the o ring.

I also would keep the original solid pushrods. Nomad and I respectfully disagree on the drain holes in the one way valve bodies in the head. Harley came up with this size for a reason. When the blow by from the piston leaks into the base, it goes up thru a small baffle, thru a small filter screen, thru a one way out rubber poppet valve into the air filter box.
Most all Harley's will drop out some oil in the filter box. The actual air is reburnt in the intake. Oil is too heavy to be pulled in(tin men will tell you different)

Back to the air valve base drain that Nomad is drilling, if you look, that actually allows more air to bypass the intended baffle before the screen that catches the oil.

 

Very helpful info ... Thanks !!