Everybody loves a good motor build thread. Here's mine.

The patient in question is a '09 Super Glide Custom. I purchased it as a stage 1 96" spring '12 and built it to its current condition spring '13




Previous setup was 103", Wood 555 cams, WFO Larry Stage 1 heads, D&D Fatcat, and Thundermax tuner. Ran great, and made decent power, but it was definitely missing something, probably due to never being properly tuned. I had it dyno'd once at 89hp/98tq, which is less than I expected. I also had a pinging issue that continuously got worse until it was a full on knock.

I was originally planning on maybe jumping up to a 107" or 110" and bumping the compression up, and I wanted to have the lower end gone through by Darkhorse. Also I was planning on switching to a Power Vision so I could get it tuned properly (I couldn't find any local tuners who had Tmax experience). Then I started a thread to get some opinions...and as these things go I'm now building a 117". Lower end got shipped off to Darkhorse, and heads went back to WFO Larry for some extra love.

Parts list:

S&S 4.125" cylinders and pistons (kit #910-0221)
S&S 585 EZ Start cams
WFO Larry Stage 2+ heads
S&S Premium Lifters
Screamin Eagle cam plate and oil pump
Fuel Moto Pushrods
Rockouts
D&D Fatcat w/ Big Bore baffle
Darkhorse trued/balanced/pinned/welded crankshaft, Competition connecting rods, & Timken bearing
SE 58mm throttle body
HPI 5.3 injectors
Power Vision, startup map supplied by Fuel Moto, planning on having dyno tuned by V-Tech Motorsports in Ramsey, MN

Haven't decided on an air cleaner yet. I really want to run a S&S teardrop, but they don't make one that fits the SE 58mm throttle body. Been looking at the R&R Overflow setup, looks like I could probably use my existing cover with that one.

For those following along at home, don't expect real rapid progress. I'm definitely taking my time, and I'm also in the middle of a kitchen remodel (got to keep the wife happy).

 

Comparison of phallic stock '09 connecting rods to the Darkhorse competition rods



Welded and pinned crank visible through rear cam bearing






My previous build I had the cylinders powdercoated black for that old shovelhead look. I wanted all black cylinders again, but S&S only offers them with highlighted fins. I did a quick mockup to see if I could convince myself I'd be ok with them, but I'm probably going to end up painting them. I'm thinking of just painting the edges of the fins, we'll see how that turns out.

 

Checking ring gaps. S&S spec is .0186" top ring, .0226-.0266" 2nd ring, and at least .015" for oil rings. Mine were tighter than that. I considered hand filing them, but google research convinced me that was a bad idea. Picked up a Proform ring filer for $55.




I'm thinking I'm going to install the pistons/cylinders on the bench, then install the motor back in the bike before I put the heads on and the camchest back together. Seems like it will be easier to handle that way.

 

Looks great...
S&S cylinders and Pistons. Great choice.

 

Nice combo. You setting it at 10.8-11:1?

 

Nice setup.... +1 on the WFO Larry headwork.

Oh,... and the Rockouts

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For ROCKOUT information & purchasing please click the LINKS below... For all Twin Cams and Evo Big Twins & Sporsters

 

Actually, that's a good question...

I'm shooting for closer to 10.25-10.5. I'll have to see if I can get the head cc measurements from Larry, otherwise do it myself if I can figure out how. Best I've been able to find, the S&S kit is around 10.9:1, when I spoke with Larry I told him I wanted to be closer to 10.25:1. But it would be good to know what I'm actually ending up with. With the EZ Start cams, I won't be able to do a cranking compression test.

Another question--I thought I remembered reading somewhere that with a Timken bearing you need to set the crankshaft endplay. I'm guessing Darkhorse did that when it was assembled, but for some reason I'm thinking that I read it can't be accurately adjusted until the stator is installed?? Doesn't really make sense to me, and I'm probably remembering wrong.

 

Excellent, this is shaping up nicely

 

Nice rods!

When you get there, I'd love to see the chamber and port work on the heads. Always had a thing for nice hand worked heads.

 

OK, so I found it interesting that a ring gap would be listed down to the TEN-Thousanths...I mean it's a ring end gap measured with a feeler gauge no less. So I pulled up the S&S kit instructions because I had to see this in print.

Well, it shows in Thousandths (what I would expect), but also different specs that you show







https://www.sscycle.com/products/117...rinkle-finish/

http://assetcloud02.roccommerce.net/...s_20131230.pdf