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Darkhorse/S&S/WFO Larry 117" build time.

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  #51  
Old 04-30-2017 | 03:12 PM
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Now we're getting somewhere.

Got the motor in the bike, installed it without the heads, and then installed and torqued the heads in the bike. Went pretty smooth.



Had to order a thicker cam sprocket spacer to get them lined up within spec, so I'll need that before I can button the cam chest up. I'll be sure to make sure the crank sprocket fits snug per Max's advice.
 
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  #52  
Old 04-30-2017 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
You can't adjust crank end-play when the lower end is assembled.. I'm sure Darkhorse set it for you. One thing you need to do for sure is get the primary sprocket spacing correct. Make sure you have clearance between the stator windings and the rotor. Seen a few guys get that wrong.. The spacer will be a different length then what you had.. I would imagine Darkhorse should be able to get you close with the spacer but always check alignment.
Started assembling the primary side, then I remembered this comment from Max... I'm not sure what spacer you're talking about? Is there supposed to be a spacer between the stator and the outer rotor, cause if there is I don't think I have one...and can't find a listing for a spec.







Also, this would have been a great time to swap on a 30t pulley, if I didn't already do that last spring.
 

Last edited by Reindeer; 04-30-2017 at 05:53 PM.
  #53  
Old 04-30-2017 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
Started assembling the primary side, then I remembered this comment from Max... I'm not sure what spacer you're talking about? Is there supposed to be a spacer between the stator and the outer rotor, cause if there is I don't think I have one...and can't find a listing for a spec.







Also, this would have been a great time to swap on a 30t pulley, if I didn't already do that last spring.
chain conversion or belt replacement opportunity as well
 
  #54  
Old 04-30-2017 | 06:09 PM
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I considered going chain last year when I changed the gearing, and I may still end up their eventually. I really want to do a Exile-style sprotor setup.
 
  #55  
Old 04-30-2017 | 07:25 PM
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If I was talking crank spacers on a crank / timken change, it would be to make sure the the spacer in the pic with the arrow is the correct length. That is a spacer that can pull out.. (it don't on some / all evos).. Anyway, you want to make sure that the primary sprockets line up. Check to make that they they do, figure it out if they don't. Also make sure the arrowed spacer is tall enough that the rotor clears the stator windings.




 
  #56  
Old 04-30-2017 | 07:40 PM
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Ok, that makes sense. I'll make sure I check that out before I go too much further.
 
  #57  
Old 05-01-2017 | 10:04 AM
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Not sure what compensator you are using but when I installed my Baker comp, the line up was not in tolerance but they machined my motor extension shaft to bring it into spec.
 
  #58  
Old 05-01-2017 | 10:09 AM
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I'm still running the stock '09 compensator. No issues with it so far, but we'll see how it likes living with more torque fed through it...

How do you like the Baker? Any regrets?
 
  #59  
Old 05-01-2017 | 10:14 AM
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I had to run a .010 shim/spacer when I went to a S&S crank. Learned the hard way. Wiped out my stator.
 
  #60  
Old 05-01-2017 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
I'm still running the stock '09 compensator. No issues with it so far, but we'll see how it likes living with more torque fed through it...

How do you like the Baker? Any regrets?
I was watching my stock comp gradually deteriorate every time I opened up my primary, it was obvious to me that it was hurting from a lack of oil. The Baker comp has the oiling issue in its design, I have not reopened the primary since install but the comp is operating perfectly. I think Baker is a rock solid company and I love their chain tensioner too.
 


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