How do you do it when there's no way to get a torque wrench on it?

 

You don't. Lube the seals, make sure they are centered in the flange and tighten by "feel". Torque a bolt you can get a torque wrench on to the torque specified for the intake manifold bolts. Put an end wrench on then and get the "feel" for the tightness of the fastener. Tighten the manifold bolts until they "feel" as tight as the test fastener.

 

They don't even need to be torqued that tight.. If you look a the flanges, there is a raised portion on the inside that makes contact with the head when the seal is compressed the right amount.. As stated. " Lube the seals, make sure they are centered in the flange and tighten by "feel." Do so working both sides of the flange to the head evenly.. There will be a light resistance as the seal starts to compress but it gets snug when flange touches the head, go a a little snugger and you are done. I use a little Blue Locktite..

 

I agree that there's no reason to be that exact with the torque specs on the manifold bolts...but to make it a bit easier I've upgraded to the 12 point chrome bolts as opposed to the allen head OEM's.

Diamond Engineering 12-Point Intake Manifold Bolts - PB537S

 

I use ARP 6 point on the left side of the bike and standard SS socket head cap screws on the right. It's easier to use a ball end allen screw driver on the right side as it's not a straight shot to the screw..

BTW Diamond Eng screws are ARP.

 

A 1/4in 6 inch ball allen will allow you to get the rightside bolts. The left ones can be done if you make a tq adapter or I use 12 points (not ARP's) and can get a 5/16 dog bone on them. Mid-USA pn 06134. BUT I still just use german tq on them.