Reassembling an 80" Top End question
#1
Reassembling an 80" Top End question
Hey All,
I'm new to the forum.
I have a 1995 HD Narrow Glide with an 80" evolution in it from 1983. I just took the top end apart and had the jugs redone and new pistons and rings put in. All that being said… I have a few questions. When i reassembled the top end. I am at the point where i have the push rods in, in the correct order but i cannot turn them like my shop manual says I should be able too.
I am still gonna go down and turn the crank to a different position and see if I can turn em then, but I have a feeling i won't be able too. Is it possible i could have them in upside down? Maybe my valve train is shot (it worked before i tore my top end down) Maybe my torque specs are wrong?
Can someone shed some light on my situation and I am stuck. I refuse to go to a shop, I am stubborn like that and i learn things the hard way haha. Thanks in advance.
Ryan
I'm new to the forum.
I have a 1995 HD Narrow Glide with an 80" evolution in it from 1983. I just took the top end apart and had the jugs redone and new pistons and rings put in. All that being said… I have a few questions. When i reassembled the top end. I am at the point where i have the push rods in, in the correct order but i cannot turn them like my shop manual says I should be able too.
I am still gonna go down and turn the crank to a different position and see if I can turn em then, but I have a feeling i won't be able too. Is it possible i could have them in upside down? Maybe my valve train is shot (it worked before i tore my top end down) Maybe my torque specs are wrong?
Can someone shed some light on my situation and I am stuck. I refuse to go to a shop, I am stubborn like that and i learn things the hard way haha. Thanks in advance.
Ryan
#2
Well in short, what was done when you say you had the jugs redone? Simple honing or was was there any milling of the surfaces done. Something with the heads, any machine work done? I ask because you did NOT say what type of push-rods you are using. Are they adjustable or are you using the stock non-adjustable type? Any material that has been milled off will change the geometry of your valve train. Also the thickness of both base and head gaskets come into play here. So if your using non-adjustable push rods and had machine work done, you need to go with adjustable type.
Also make sure your at TDC, for both cylinders,when adjusting your push rods. In other words your lifters need to be sitting on the base circle of your cam and not the lobe.
Or your lifter are pumped up and staying pumped up.
Also make sure your at TDC, for both cylinders,when adjusting your push rods. In other words your lifters need to be sitting on the base circle of your cam and not the lobe.
Or your lifter are pumped up and staying pumped up.
#3
#4
So Im using stock push rods. All I had done was the cylinder walls honed out. I'm using the proper torque specs for all head studs and rocker box bolts and I am doing them all in the proper sequence. I still can't stick my finger in there and spin the push rods when every things torqued down tight. Maybe I need a valve job?? Im totally stumped. I can't see the torque specs being wrong because I'm reading it straight out of my shop manual.
Maybe my push rods aren't sitting properly in their position? I don't effin know, I'm about to go to the shop haha. Who knows, maybe my friggin shop manual is not correct for my motor. Should every models push rods spin when torqued down?
I really appreciate your help. Im just an amateur trying to learn on my own.
Ryan
Maybe my push rods aren't sitting properly in their position? I don't effin know, I'm about to go to the shop haha. Who knows, maybe my friggin shop manual is not correct for my motor. Should every models push rods spin when torqued down?
I really appreciate your help. Im just an amateur trying to learn on my own.
Ryan
#6
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