Engine Identification
#22
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina
Posts: 3,287
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Problem is definitely engine. It vibrated so bad it broke the gas tank tab and also cracked the oil tank. It is in all rpms at any speed.no funny sounds at all.it has gotten worse over time.Im thinking something maybe wrong with the engine balance at the crank .I wanted to identify the engine and maybe re work it to have more ***.I want more power with a lot less vibration.
The mounts are all good,the wheels are balanced the trans has no effect in or out of gear.I changed the clutch a year ago also the primary chain tensioner.the tensioner was broken but it was vibrating way before that.I don't know if the tensioner being broken can harm the engine.Im not sure how long it was broken.It probably did.
since I don't have the build sheets anymore I wanted to get as much info on the engine so I can perform a new build.
The mounts are all good,the wheels are balanced the trans has no effect in or out of gear.I changed the clutch a year ago also the primary chain tensioner.the tensioner was broken but it was vibrating way before that.I don't know if the tensioner being broken can harm the engine.Im not sure how long it was broken.It probably did.
since I don't have the build sheets anymore I wanted to get as much info on the engine so I can perform a new build.
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cavemansean (03-15-2017)
#23
Ok
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
#24
Thanks ill try that as soon as I can finish the cleanup from the hurricane. My neighbor hood has a lot of damage. Lots of my neighbors have trees in their homes and need help with the cleanup. I was lucky and only one tree came down in my yard. As soon as I can finish with them ill start the bike again.
#25
Thanks for the info on the 3.5 turns. I wish it worked. I still have the loud knock in the back cylinder. I checked to make sure the rods were not hitting the Push rod covers.I know I'm getting oil to the top because my O-rings on the push rod covers are bad and I have oil coming out of them. They were brand new O-rings too. I pulled of the head covers on both heads and I have almost no play in side to side on the rocker arms. I also verified the rocker assembly is straight and on correctly. The springs look to be ok.They have no visible problems.
With the covers of I turned the motor with the starter and everything looked to move as they should. I put the mechanics stethoscope on all the parts moving and I herd nothing wrong. I'm stumped. Compression check was 195 psi in both cylinders and zero leek down for 15 min. Oil pressure was 35 psi when It was running.
I AM STUMPED.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
The ones that helped so far I appreciate it very much and Thank You.
With the covers of I turned the motor with the starter and everything looked to move as they should. I put the mechanics stethoscope on all the parts moving and I herd nothing wrong. I'm stumped. Compression check was 195 psi in both cylinders and zero leek down for 15 min. Oil pressure was 35 psi when It was running.
I AM STUMPED.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
The ones that helped so far I appreciate it very much and Thank You.
#26
#27
Ok
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
So this is the update
I rebuilt the entire bike.the engine was sent out to revaluation performance and the bottom is is now bullit proof.i couldn't afford the 124 motor.
For some stupid reason I can't get he push rods sdjusted correctly.this is the only thing left to do.
It's running like a raped ape butt it has a valve train knock in the rear jug.
The s&s pushrods are 24 threads per inch.wihich means it should be 2.5 turns to adjust them.i now have gear drive and 570g cams.what should the adjustment be.
I'm stumped.i had s&s tappets. It the kept freezing up on me.so I went with stock and they seem to be working well.i have oil pressure and no leeks anyware.
Any help would be appreciated.
https://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/in...rod-adjustment
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