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oil light comes on at low rpms

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  #11  
Old 10-16-2014, 10:30 AM
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Sounds like you dodged a bullet. Have the tech check crank runout while the cam chest is open. Excessive runout could have caused the problem and if so, you will be looking at a similar situation in the future. Crank runout spec for the '05 models for warranty purposes was .003".
 
  #12  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Just a guess but if you look how the thing goes together, the oil pump is not dowed the the cam plate. The plate is however dowed. They have two tapered pins that they temporary screw in to align. Makes no sense to me. Only thing I can figure is it's to compensate for the crank run out. The crank coming thru there is a loose fit that drives the inner lobe. However if pump is offset and runout is enough, it binds. can bind to a point that it will break on start up. Seen it on here. I also assume the wear you saw was the lobes in the aluminum housing. There is some play and it's measurable to determine if pump is worn. Could be someone had it in a bind and it wore the pump. Was it Harley stuff or aftermarket? Oil pumps are pretty tough but they do get unfiltered oil just like in a car. On the old EVO's, it was filtered one way but TC's is unfiltered since what is dumped in bag is unfiltered and that goes back to pump. I do not think it was the oil. Was the wear you saw the OD of rotor in the housing. It's actually very hard to see this wear. Usually it's end wear in the faces that allows the oil pressure to drop. Soft02 has a picture of this. It was either sorry parts or workmanship. JUST MY OPINION.
Since the engine was rebuilt by the dealer from where I bought it, I can only assume that all of the parts were from HD. I wiggled the shaft of the pump, and it felt loose like it was ready to come apart. I don`t know anything about how an HD oil pump is made. Your description and drawing was an education for me. But, this doesn`t make it look good for Harley in my opinion. `Seems like poor design and inferior parts to me.
 
  #13  
Old 10-16-2014, 12:18 PM
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Take a look at the Drag hi capacity pump to replace the OEM pump; a better piece.


The oil pump does not have a shaft so I am not sure what you were "wiggling". The oil pump includes three main pieces; the housing, the scavenge gerotor and the feed gerotor. There are two spacers and spring washers as well. Did you take any photos of the damaged parts? If so, post them.
 
  #14  
Old 10-16-2014, 12:32 PM
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When it's off the shaft, the inner lobe would appear free and wobble up and down as it rotates. That would mean nothing. Not in and out. Probably, the truth of the issue unless someone was watching and they were repairing it to sell, no telling what corners they cut. The manual says first to check to make sure relief valve is not snug open by trash causing low oil pressure. Remember, whatever you put on there, a TC needs below 12 Lb oil pressure at idle or you will flood the cylinders from the oil jets and cook the oil at idle if you drive in a hot climate.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 10-16-2014 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
When it's off the shaft, the inner lobe would appear free and wobble up and down as it rotates. That would mean nothing. Not in and out. Probably, the truth of the issue unless someone was watching and they were repairing it to sell, no telling what corners they cut. The manual says first to check to make sure relief valve is not snug open by trash causing low oil pressure. Remember, whatever you put on there, a TC needs below 12 Lb oil pressure at idle or you will flood the cylinders from the oil jets and cook the oil at idle if you drive in a hot climate.
Okay, I guess I grabbed the wrong part and just didn`t know what I was doing. As far as the high performance oil pump goes, I`m stuck with the one the shop is going to put in there, as this is under warranty. What can I expect from the "new, high volume output" oil pump they mentioned?
 
  #16  
Old 10-16-2014, 01:52 PM
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They know you are watching. I would tell them you are interested in seeing the old parts they replace. (they probably have to return them since it's under warranty) . Least you will know it was replaced. I personally doubt any aftermarket is as good as OEM. That OEM SE oil pump is a $300+ part
 
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
Okay, I guess I grabbed the wrong part and just didn`t know what I was doing. As far as the high performance oil pump goes, I`m stuck with the one the shop is going to put in there, as this is under warranty. What can I expect from the "new, high volume output" oil pump they mentioned?
Unless the repair includes the '07 and later cam plate; there is no "new, high volume output" oil pump for the pre '07 models; at least not an OEM pump. The OEM SE pump is not compatible with the early cam plate. The early pumps rely on an o-ring to seal against the cam plate but the later pumps do not. Fueling makes one; the cheapest one is about $250 and Dan Thayer makes one that runs about $300. I haven't investigated who makes the Drag pump but a local well known builder has used the Drag pump without issues; all are better options than the early OEM pump. If I was going to pay $300 to replace an early oil pump I would opt for an aftermarket product for the improved flow and scavenging.

Interestingly enough, the MoCo has priced the later hi capacity oil pump about $100 less than the early oil pump since the advent of the hydraulic tensioner setup in '07. When faced with a $300 oil pump replacement while retaining the old spring loaded tensioners, the dealers make a push for the later upgraded cam plate and hi capacity pump. Pay less for the pump but more for the cam plate to get rid of the early tensioners; great marketing strategy doncha think?

I am beginning to wonder if the dealer techs are being totally open with you about the problem and the remedy. JMHO, but I am a cynic.
 
  #18  
Old 10-17-2014, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by djl
Unless the repair includes the '07 and later cam plate; there is no "new, high volume output" oil pump for the pre '07 models; at least not an OEM pump. The OEM SE pump is not compatible with the early cam plate. The early pumps rely on an o-ring to seal against the cam plate but the later pumps do not. Fueling makes one; the cheapest one is about $250 and Dan Thayer makes one that runs about $300. I haven't investigated who makes the Drag pump but a local well known builder has used the Drag pump without issues; all are better options than the early OEM pump. If I was going to pay $300 to replace an early oil pump I would opt for an aftermarket product for the improved flow and scavenging.

Interestingly enough, the MoCo has priced the later hi capacity oil pump about $100 less than the early oil pump since the advent of the hydraulic tensioner setup in '07. When faced with a $300 oil pump replacement while retaining the old spring loaded tensioners, the dealers make a push for the later upgraded cam plate and hi capacity pump. Pay less for the pump but more for the cam plate to get rid of the early tensioners; great marketing strategy doncha think?

I am beginning to wonder if the dealer techs are being totally open with you about the problem and the remedy. JMHO, but I am a cynic.
According to Ripsaw the OEM pump is the SE one, which he says is about $300. So, it`s not the "high volume" pump or equivalent? Remember, this engine was rebuilt about this time last year, so would HD make changes to cover its butt, like the above ones you mentioned? I`m gonna go back to the shop and also ask to see the tensioners, because I want to see how much wear they have on them. Now that I know what to look for on the oil pump, I`ll take a closer look at that too.
 
  #19  
Old 10-17-2014, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
According to Ripsaw the OEM pump is the SE one, which he says is about $300. So, it`s not the "high volume" pump or equivalent? Remember, this engine was rebuilt about this time last year, so would HD make changes to cover its butt, like the above ones you mentioned? I`m gonna go back to the shop and also ask to see the tensioners, because I want to see how much wear they have on them. Now that I know what to look for on the oil pump, I`ll take a closer look at that too.
Ripsaw is correct about the price of the pump; however, not the SE pump. Unless, as I mentioned in my previous post, the dealer is also changing the cam plate to the '07 and late plate.

There are three HD oil pumps:
1. PN 26035-99B which is the OEM pump and direct replacement for all models from '99-'07 except the '06 Dyna. This pump goes for about $250 from an online discount dealer.
2. PN 26037-06 which is the upgraded oil pump introduced in the '06 Dyna models and later in all '07 and up models. This pump sells for about $150 from an online discount dealer but will not replace a 26035-99B pump.
3. PN 62400001 which is often referred to as the SE pump because it comes as part of the billet plate/pump upgrade kit for the '06 Dyna and all '07 and up models. This pump increased flow and scavenging over the #2 26037-06 pump and sells for about $115 from an online discount dealer.

Isn't it interesting how the pump with the lowest capacity sells for the highest price and the pump with the highest capacity sells for the lowest price but the highest capacity pump is designed such that it cannot replace the lowest capacity pump?:icon-wink:
 

Last edited by djl; 10-17-2014 at 11:39 AM.
  #20  
Old 10-17-2014, 12:26 PM
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Sorry about the misinfo. I actually looked your bike up trying to find a a CVO and assumed it may at least have SE parts on it. It appeared to be a stock motor in the fish but figured that was wrong. I personally have just found with 67 years of livings that most of the times, it hard to beat OEM on most items. Usually corners or sorry engineering or materials go into aftermarket. Also, you do not need a high output oil pump for a Harley and it's just there way of blowing smoke. If it gets oil on it, that's all it needs. Of course just my opinion.
 


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