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95" streetable engine build

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Old 09-26-2014, 03:55 AM
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Default 95" streetable engine build

Over the last week or two I have been researching and reading up on the idea of going to a big bore. If money were no object I would have a second motor to build and retain my "stocker" as a backup and have either a local builder or one of the other known reputable builders that sponsor this site do the work. For me, I am on a budget and part of the fun in all of this is learning and I will be doing as much of the assembly as I feel comfortable with which should be almost everything except the machine work.
Last year, I went from completly stock TC88 and replaced my cams with Andrews 21's, bought a Dragos 2 into 1 kit, and added the PCV with auto tune. That was a huge improvement over stock and I performed all of the work myself. However I can't seem to leave well enough alone and I want more power than my buddies lol!
That being said, I am starting to develop a game plan for this winters mods. There is a local guy that has been around for years (and well known good reputation) that I would like to use but I have a couple of concerns. During a phone conversation I had with him last week I explained my goal of 100hp out of a streetable 95" motor. I may have mentioned the idea of staying under 10:1 CR because I had come to the conclusion that anything more would not be very reliable in a heavy RK such as mine. He didn't seem to think this was possible. After more reading and researching I read of several builds achieving 100/100 with below 10:1 CR. Now I am not opposed to a higher CR if reliability won't be an issue. Unfortunatly I haven't been able to find any information that confirms or denies that possibility.
So, with the idea that my goals CAN be achieved under 10:1CR I am starting to put together a list of possible combinations that I think could get me close. First, it appears (still waiting on confirmation) that AMS offers a CNC ported heads and 96" BB kit that comes with what appears to be everything I need for a very reasonable price. Even just the BB cylinders and KB piston kit appears to cost close to what some pistons are going for alone. If I went that route I was thinking of having my heads ported by bigboyz as I hear alot of positive reviews and a very attractive price.
Alternativly, I would almost prefer to utilize the local guy for all the machine work. He said he could bore my cylinders and fit to whatever pistons I prefer for $225. I forgot how much he said to port my heads. It seems some folks believe utilizing your factory "seasoned" cylinders is the best route to take.
The last piece of the puzzle that comes to mind right now is cam choices for what I have in mind. As of now the ones I have in mind are Andrews 54 or 37, S&S 570, or Woods TW8. I do ride somewhat aggressivly for the most part, sometimes just cruise, and occasionally road trip loaded down with my wife and gear (probably exceeding gvwr with our gear (not my wife lol)).
Thanks in advance for any input or constructive criticizm!
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:32 AM
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The Wood 8 is out at 10.0 cr.
It needs 10.75 to optimize.
Take a look at the Andrews 57, it may not hp out like the .570, but it packs a very big punch off the bottom.
No reason not to bore to 98".
Scott
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:28 AM
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the .570`s,set at 10.0-1 is a very nice build (ide do 98" over 95" too)
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:36 PM
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i av a road king 2000 carb bore to 98 ci with wfo larry head work stage 1+ stock exhaust valve bigger intake valve with supertrapp 2 in 1 exhaust
andrews 57 cam i dont remember exact compression but im at 185 ccp i end up at 98 hp 107 tq real fun ride
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:41 AM
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I have been thinking the last few days about a more realistic way for me to achieve my goals.
I had started leaning more towards the Andrews 37 cams in my original build plan and then found where others had success running them in a 88 with head work and increased compression. My thinking is telling me that I have been wanting to get into the heads on it anyway to check on my valves (excessively noisy imo) so might as well have them ported and milled for 9.5 static compression.
Then at the same time swap my cam out for the Andrews 37. Then when I can afford to, I will go to a big bore kit then I should be getting closer to 9.8 to 10.1 static compression.
I realize that will require twice the disassembly however I don't really mind as I love wrenching on stuff especially when when it's for something fun.
As for my cam choice: although I do ride a touring bike, I tend to ride it more aggressively then most ppl I think. I like to run between 2600 and 3500 rpm most of the time. My wife and I occasionally road trip with gear but again I usually keep my rpms up. Also I have the Dragos 2into1 already installed. And beings my bike is a standard road king, it should be on the lighter side of the tourers.
A question I have is what have you guys been seeing as far as deck height goes from a stock 88? I am concerned about milling my heads and according to big boyz calculator with -0.010 height I would need close to 81cc. I don't like the idea of the changes to pushrod geometry and heard there can be intake manifold fitment issues. Could those angles be easily corrected? I do like the idea of the nice increase in compression you get by increasing the bore.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:35 AM
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Both Scott and Kirby have seen many more TC88 motors than I have but in my limited experience, I have seen TC88 deck heights run between -.003"-.005"; really not a factor.

The Andrews 57 cam is identical to the 37 in profile but with more lift; both would be good choices. I have built a couple of 95" motors with the 37 cam and all have made (round numbers) 105TQ/95HP. The 570 build Kirby mentioned is guaranteed 100/100 numbers. $225 to bore and fit pistons is more than what I am used to paying in my neck of the woods.

Achieving your goal of 100/100 numbers is actually pretty easy with 95" or 98". Why stop at 95" when, for the same cost, you can pickup another 3-5 in TQ/HP for the same cost?

Do some research on headwork. Not knocking BigBoyz; good deal for what you get but Bean's "street" port retains the stock valves and springs, includes porting, valve job and new guide seals. There is an additional cost for machine work, i.e., decking, drilling for compression releases, etc. Your 2005 heads are probably the worst ever produced by the MoCo; whatever you do, definitely get the heads worked.

You will likely need to cut the heads .050", or more depending on actual chamber volume, to get to 81ccs which can alter the fitment of the intake manifold which again is easily overcome. I have a 95" motor built years ago in a '05 Deuce and the heads were cut .060" but I had no fitment issues with the intake manifold. Don't worry about pushrod geometry until you start looking at cams with much higher lift. I have run stock rockers with .600" lift cams with no issues; just get a good set of lifters and adjustable pushrods.

Considering the marginal additional cost to bore to 95"/98", I would be looking under the couch pillows for the spare change to do all at once. JMHO.
 
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320
the .570`s,set at 10.0-1 is a very nice build (ide do 98" over 95" too)
Still miss this build,Good for 100/100 with the right parts,and great on gas,and I have a few builds, A 103,113,and a 131 all run great,But that little 95/98 build just seemed to run like a scalded dog ,and never was temperamental at all in the heat or city riding two up in a bagger......

And was the most economical build of all of them.......
 
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:52 AM
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Again thanks for all the input!

Right now I am leaning towards the idea of 96" cylinder kit from AMS. I already have andrews 21 cams and new tensioners installed only a year ago. I believe some refer to it as the Joe Minton build? So if I just do a 96" kit with stock heads (for now) my compression will go up to around 9.5:1, which I have heard is about max for the 21s. That will also give me the opportunity to measure deck height and inspect my valves while I am in there. Maybe have light head work done locally if I can swing it. Then I will know what I'll need to do when I am ready to re cam later to the 570 or andrews 37 or 57.


Anyway there is no way I can afford everything all at once. Kinda limited to spending less that a grand at a time and I know I wouldn't be able to save to do it all at once. We are bad about not touching savings money and always end up chipping away at it over time when other things come up.
 
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:01 AM
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You can kick those 21's in the a$$ via using a set of S/E 1.725 rocker arms.
Scott
 
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MOSTWANTED
I have been thinking the last few days about a more realistic way for me to achieve my goals.
I had started leaning more towards the Andrews 37 cams in my original build plan and then found where others had success running them in a 88 with head work and increased compression. My thinking is telling me that I have been wanting to get into the heads on it anyway to check on my valves (excessively noisy imo) so might as well have them ported and milled for 9.5 static compression.
Then at the same time swap my cam out for the Andrews 37. Then when I can afford to, I will go to a big bore kit then I should be getting closer to 9.8 to 10.1 static compression.
I realize that will require twice the disassembly however I don't really mind as I love wrenching on stuff especially when when it's for something fun.
As for my cam choice: although I do ride a touring bike, I tend to ride it more aggressively then most ppl I think. I like to run between 2600 and 3500 rpm most of the time. My wife and I occasionally road trip with gear but again I usually keep my rpms up. Also I have the Dragos 2into1 already installed. And beings my bike is a standard road king, it should be on the lighter side of the tourers.
A question I have is what have you guys been seeing as far as deck height goes from a stock 88? I am concerned about milling my heads and according to big boyz calculator with -0.010 height I would need close to 81cc. I don't like the idea of the changes to pushrod geometry and heard there can be intake manifold fitment issues. Could those angles be easily corrected? I do like the idea of the nice increase in compression you get by increasing the bore.

Instead of the stigma of staying under 10-1 compression
Play with the bigboyz calculator a little more and watch how different cams and compression ratios change the cranking compression.


@ 10-1 there are a dozen cams that will make good broad power....not ping...run on about any gas.




Just takes a little homework and a discussion with a builder that can explain everything to you.


Might as well do everything in one shot and enjoy the upgraded power and not have to mess with extra shipping and waiting on parts.


AMS seems to do pretty decent work...I would not put KB hyper pistons in my enemies engine for fear of shrapnel.....they also offer a forged piston as an upgrade...would be a worthwhile upgrade
 


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