Upgrading to True Duals
#21
Well, to the need to remap, my short personal history:
Y pipe cracked on '00 95" Stage II FLTRSEI at 72,000 miles. Had it welded but was warned to keep looking for a replacement as there aren't guarantees on welds on Y pipes lasting.
Picked up a White Bros "E" Series 2 into 1 w/ diffuser discs and just put it on and drove it. Aside from an adjustment to idle speed, there was no need for a tuner or remap. Have more power, good burn on plugs, no stumbling anywhere and the same 46 mpg as I've always enjoyed.
Read some old posts from a performance website (now closed,) on tuning my diffuser discs, ( White Bros. is out of business too.) Found several examples of bikes set up like mine and duplicated their disc counts on E Series pipes. Great results, more low end power and still civil throughout the power band.
At 82,000, the tensioners finally went, and I installed 26G ( gear drive,) cams with adjustable pushrods and Black Ops lifters. Runs the best yet, and STILL haven't touched the programming. Just turned 92,000 miles.
I think you're safe just throwing on your True Duals
Y pipe cracked on '00 95" Stage II FLTRSEI at 72,000 miles. Had it welded but was warned to keep looking for a replacement as there aren't guarantees on welds on Y pipes lasting.
Picked up a White Bros "E" Series 2 into 1 w/ diffuser discs and just put it on and drove it. Aside from an adjustment to idle speed, there was no need for a tuner or remap. Have more power, good burn on plugs, no stumbling anywhere and the same 46 mpg as I've always enjoyed.
Read some old posts from a performance website (now closed,) on tuning my diffuser discs, ( White Bros. is out of business too.) Found several examples of bikes set up like mine and duplicated their disc counts on E Series pipes. Great results, more low end power and still civil throughout the power band.
At 82,000, the tensioners finally went, and I installed 26G ( gear drive,) cams with adjustable pushrods and Black Ops lifters. Runs the best yet, and STILL haven't touched the programming. Just turned 92,000 miles.
I think you're safe just throwing on your True Duals
#22
What I have an issue with is the over-reaching statements that any and all TD systems will lose torque to the stock exhaust system. IF that's true, then the person stating it should be able to produce some sort of supporting evidence.
apologies to the OP for the thread hijack.
Last edited by Mike; 08-12-2011 at 12:16 PM.
#23
Like I said in a previous, the OEM "Y" pipe system, while being a "dual" system works more like a 2:1 system, particularly in the lower rpm ranges. I don't recall the exact percentage of the rear cylinder exhaust that dumps into the right side pipe in the lower rpm ranges but it is somehere around 60%. The exhaust from the rear cylinder taht flows into the right side pipe keeps back pressure on the system that is lost in the lower rpm ranges with a TD system. Once you hit the higher rpm ranges, more of the rear cylinder exhaust dumps into the left side pipe reducing system back pressure allowing the system to perform fairly well in the upper rpm ranges but not as well as a TD system. That is why the OEM system will make more torque in the lower rpm ranges but not as much HP in the upper rpm ranges as a TD system.
Talk to any knowldegeable builder/tuner and they will tell you the same thing but if your butt dyno tells you different, you would probably argue with them as well.
Last edited by djl; 08-12-2011 at 01:45 PM.
#24