wiring spots to stay on with high beams
#1
#3
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if you will look at the schematics, you see a yellow wire from the power source, through the fuse to the headlight switch LOW BEAM selector then to the switch to the lights. you need to find the wire for the high beam and tap into that. Run that through a diode to provide power to the switch as well. This will still allow your switch to turn on and off the spots, but it will provide power from the factor low-beam wire but also not through the high beam wire. the diode will allow current to flow TO the switch...but not back. Back would cause the high beam and low beam to become connected when the hi lo switch is flipped
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#5
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go buy a diode. more than 5 AMP. you will see a silver ring around on end. Open your headlight bucket...stick this end into the connector where the white wire is. Stick the other end into the yellow wire. Start your bike! Alli esta! High beam..workie!!! Low workie! Passing lamp..ALWAYS WORKIE! Passing lamp switch..WORKIE! Problem..solved! Cost..about a few bucks and 10 to 15 minutes. you can just JAM this in there...and slap a piece of tape on it..ir a bead of solder...that liquid electrical tape..or if you're feeling a little beered up.. just lick it with your toungue
#6
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go buy a diode. more than 5 AMP. you will see a silver ring around on end. Open your headlight bucket...stick this end into the connector where the white wire is. Stick the other end into the yellow wire. Start your bike! Alli esta! High beam..workie!!! Low workie! Passing lamp..ALWAYS WORKIE! Passing lamp switch..WORKIE! Problem..solved! Cost..about a few bucks and 10 to 15 minutes. you can just JAM this in there...and slap a piece of tape on it..ir a bead of solder...that liquid electrical tape..or if you're feeling a little beered up.. just lick it with your toungue
That was a funny post on how to do it
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#7
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#8
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In case anyone is still looking for this information...here's what I did this afternoon. My bike APPARENTLY wasn't initially sold in the US. According to the schematics - there's no running lights on front or rear and no fender lights on the 2000 FLSTC. The wiring diagram shows a blue wire for domestic bikes. This wire is running lights and also goes to the headlight bucket as well as the front turns for running lights. It also goes to the left hand controls. Follow the left hand control cables down to the neck. I used a razor and created a slit in the black cable housing. Then I put a wire and a wire tap on the blue wire. For the spots..remove the connector from the spot switch...it's a yellow wire which is HOT for low beams. Now..the blue wire you just tapped into...add a connector and put that where the yellow wire was on the spot switch. I have some pics if needed.
#9
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In case anyone is still looking for this information...here's what I did this afternoon. My bike APPARENTLY wasn't initially sold in the US. According to the schematics - there's no running lights on front or rear and no fender lights on the 2000 FLSTC. The wiring diagram shows a blue wire for domestic bikes. This wire is running lights and also goes to the headlight bucket as well as the front turns for running lights. It also goes to the left hand controls. Follow the left hand control cables down to the neck. I used a razor and created a slit in the black cable housing. Then I put a wire and a wire tap on the blue wire. For the spots..remove the connector from the spot switch...it's a yellow wire which is HOT for low beams. Now..the blue wire you just tapped into...add a connector and put that where the yellow wire was on the spot switch. I have some pics if needed.
But could you please send me a pic of how you did this wiring job?
Thanks
Tim