Did you pull the turn signal bulbs? The bulbs will provide continuity to ground.

 

Not since pulling the TSM as I couldn't even locate it in the beginning, but I did test the bulbs and sockets earlier in the week. I assume there shouldn't be continuity on the unit itself between pins 1 (Gnd) and pin 2 (+v) when unplugged from the bike though, so figured I was safe on picking the TSM itself as the issue. Is there a way to test the unit itself to make sure it works before I order a replacement?

 

Pull the bulbs, plug in the TSM, install a fresh fuse and see if it blows. If it doesn't turn on the 4 ways and look for the instrument panel to either flash both or have both stay on solid, if all is well so far, then install one bulb at a time and see if the fuse blows. There is a jumper technique that you can pull DTCs but you need the turn signals to do it.

 

Will give that a try as soon as I get home and the tropical storm passes, but it def makes sense that the issue could be beyond the TSM.... I just got so excited to see my speedo go back to zero and everything but the signal lights working to even consider that, but would def be a cheaper fix if so.... Thanks, I'll hold off on the TSM til I run those tests.... I assume if it blows with no bulbs in any, that it's the TSM itself. I'll post back and let you know how it goes once I've done that Appreciate the tips

 

Fuse blows with no Turn Signal bulbs in, so I assume its the TSM

 

Seems to be a pretty safe assumption. Just one quick question, with bulbs out did you check brown to ground and violet to ground to see if you had a grounded hot wire? If you haven't done so I would check both sides of the TSM just to be sure.

 

I had spent the last day trying to track down a TSM in stock from local bike shops with no luck and had just decided to try a Badlands unit and had I loaded in the cart when I saw this post. Went out and checked violet and brown wires to black and found current drop on both (not sure if numbers mean much, but averaged around 660 I believe for both rather then the zero I'd expect with a direct short)

Would that suggest a floating ground? If it had of only been one or the other, I'd think I had a shorted wire going to either left or right turn signals, but since both violet and brown wires had same drop I assume the issue is with the black wire somehow.

 

Is that from the TSM or is that from the socket? I was saying to ohms check to ground not voltage check on each of the 4 wires with the bulbs out shooting from the TSM connector. This way if you get any continuity to ground you know it is a wire issue and not a TSM issue.

 

That was from the socket using the black wire as ground and probing the violet and brown wires with bulbs out. Its an old multimeter with most the writing worn off, but I used the setting that shows 1 when open and when you touch the probes goes to 0, so I assumed (likely incorrectly) that if the violet or brown wire were shorted, they would show 0, but since the running lights share the ground that might explain the 660 reading. I'll grab a proper multi meter in the morning so I'm at least on the right setting next time when I test and try and do it per your instructions .... Thanks again for your patience and expertise
(if you ever need help/advice with video production and/or editing, feel free to pick my brain!)

 

Running lights are on the blue wire not the violet or brown. There is a separate contact on the 1157 socket for the running lights.