stator questions
#1
stator questions
from all the info Ive seen, when testing for a ground-short circuit from the 3 wires out of the stator to motor ground , you are not supposed to get any continuity what so ever. I get .2 ohms between each phase to each other. the stator puts out 24-25 vac at 1000 rpm 46 vac at 2000 rpm ohm each phase. this is my question if this thing is grounded why does it still produce the correct voltage. just to be sure any continuity on any phase to motor ground means some of the insulation is shot and changing the stator is the only option. originally I had noticed my voltage gauge was at 12 volts while going down the hyway, the batter did charge enough to restart the bike all weekend. , few days later Im going to bike night at Harley dealer and engine light came on and I noticed the volt meter climbing very quickly and the needle pegged out on the dial 16-17 volts , so I turn around go home read engine code which was voltage to high and voltage too high on ignition. , I got a new voltage reg ,but until Im sure about the stator or have to get a new one I don't want to put the regulator on yet.
#2
#3
All Stator wires are common to each other s shown in the center of the drawing. But they are in no way common to ground.
see if this helps:
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
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Ed Ramberger (07-25-2019)
#4
its toasted all right
pulled bike apart tonight, boy did that oil ever stink. just like an electrical fire, good thing I checked it instead of just tossing another voltage regulator on it. thinking maybe I should get the battery load tested just incase the battery caused the regulator-stator to pull a higher load.. thanks for the replies, I figured it was shot when I got continuity to ground ,but just wanted to make sure I before I tore it down and blew another 225 for stator
Last edited by 2009blackpearle; 07-26-2019 at 10:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Vernal (07-26-2019)
#6
from all the info Ive seen, when testing for a ground-short circuit from the 3 wires out of the stator to motor ground , you are not supposed to get any continuity what so ever. I get .2 ohms between each phase to each other. the stator puts out 24-25 vac at 1000 rpm 46 vac at 2000 rpm ohm each phase. this is my question if this thing is grounded why does it still produce the correct voltage. just to be sure any continuity on any phase to motor ground means some of the insulation is shot and changing the stator is the only option. originally I had noticed my voltage gauge was at 12 volts while going down the hyway, the batter did charge enough to restart the bike all weekend. , few days later Im going to bike night at Harley dealer and engine light came on and I noticed the volt meter climbing very quickly and the needle pegged out on the dial 16-17 volts , so I turn around go home read engine code which was voltage to high and voltage too high on ignition. , I got a new voltage reg ,but until Im sure about the stator or have to get a new one I don't want to put the regulator on yet.
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