I saw a similar posting from 2011 but mine situation seemed a little different. Was hoping to get some advice on the next step to take. I have a 2007 custom 1200 sportster. When I turn the key to accessories, my speedometer display lights up but no headlights, no turning signals, but the horn sounds like it is trying to work. When I turn key to ignition, the speedometer goes out and nothing has power. I measured the voltage across the main wire into the key ignition and each of the other two wires while in the ignition position and only got 9 volts. Should it be that low across the ignition? I did check fuses and relays and they seem ok so not sure where else to look for the problem. I'm new to working on a HD motorcycle.

Assuming I may have short, I am guessing I need to test wires but is there a way to do it without removing all the wire wraps?

 

How old is your battery and have you tested it?

 

[QUOTE=Countrybowl;18304904
Assuming I may have short, I am guessing I need to test wires but is there a way to do it without removing all the wire wraps?[/QUOTE]

Forget about this, the bike does not have a short.

Answer nevil`s question.

 

I'm using a brand new battery. I noticed today that when I have it on accessories and try to use the horn the power flickers off as I can tell from the speedometer. So if there is anyone that has actually experienced this same problem, I'd love to hear from you. If you have not had this problem before, please don't waste my time with stupid questions. I do have experience with electronics but I have two jobs and little time to get this bike up and running before the summer is over....

update - so i honed in on the battery and realized I have 12 volts across the battery without it connected to the bike....when I hook up the main red wire to the battery I still have 12 volts....but when I hook up the wire with the max fuse I get a 2.2 voltage drop from the battery, without the key in the ignition. I don't know much about the wiring of a motorcycle so I don't know where that wire goes to and what the short could be from. Any suggestions?

 

Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it was fully charged when you installed it. 12 volts would indicate it needs to get charge up and load tested.

 

Well, if you want help you are going to have to listen to some questions, if ya got a problem with that, see ya...

It doesn`t matter that someone else may have had the same problem, it easily could have been caused by some different issue than your bike is experiencing, you should know that with your electrical expertise....

The way to find out what is wrong is systematic troubleshooting, this is an extremely simple electrical system on this bike, so listen more and give out less ****.

Pull the battery.
Charge the battery.
Have it load tested.
Clean all electrical connections to the battery.

Until you do this, you can`t properly troubleshoot the system, you will just be chasing your tail.

OK?

And once again, it is not a short. Not every defect in an electrical system is a short.

Short is not a generic term for electrical malfunction.

 

People love load testing batteries here. Never done one. Not that is awful. But IMO best to buy a meter and trouble shoot.

Check connections on battery. Surprising how often this does it. Charge battery on low over night. If it starts, it could be battery or it could be charging system. Check AC out put from stator. I don't know what it is should be for an XL. Battery should be around 12.7DC after it has sat for awhile. Should rev up to 14.4

Sure a new battery could be bad, but statisically I would look at other stuff first.

 

Basic electrical troubleshooting.

Look for obvious stuff of course, but until you know you have a fully charged battery in good working order, you could be missing the real issue.

Battery load test will cost exactly nothing but a few minutes of your time.

While the battery is out all electrical connections can be checked.

Guys who hurry into electrical troubleshooting because they don`t want to waste their time with the basics (such as the OP)
are all over these forums, lots of them troubleshoot by buying electrical parts...then they come here and ask what is wrong

 

I think it is a bad idea to not check the connections first. If they are good than charge. You want good connection before charging.


I just think bothering to leave the house with the battery is waste of my time. So easy to just hook a charger on and come back. Some people have argued load tests are destructive test too. Shops may do a load test because it is quick. They can't sit on it over night. If it does shorten battery life a little, not their problem.

I think load tests are for people who can't use a meter.

AC out out, DC output/regulation, connection, and storage.

I trouble shoot DC systems for a living. Granted I am not a specialist on vehicles. But I think as theory break it down. Can be tougher with automotive due to connectors and knowing where everything is.

 

A load test does nothing more than put a load on the battery (battery should be fully charged), no different than when you engage the starter.

OK.....