Pulled the outer fairing off my 2013 ElectraGlide Classic intending to hardwire my Garmin GPS to the accessory power socket (recently installed to replace the cigar lighter socket). I also have an in-fairing antenna plugged onto the leads which multi-meter tested for 12V DC. Seemed a simple enough project - cut the + and - antenna wires and splice in the GPS hardwire using heatshrink solder connectors. But after cutting the wires, I lost all power in those lines and the lines running to the socket itself. I've checked the in-line direct wire fuse, the PA fuse, even the antenna fuse (which draws from but doesn't provide the source power) and all the fuses appear fine. I respliced the antenna wires back together (without the GPS wires) and still nothing. I plugged a phone charger into the socket thinking that maybe I'd actually blown the GPS somehow (which works from any other source) and it wasn't getting power either (I used it yesterday and it worked fine). I suppose I can hardwire the GPS onto the battery leads, but that would mean running it along the frame, under the tank fuel panel, and across a gap with wire hanging between the tank and the handlebar where the mount is secured...not my preference. But even so, I'm absolutely stymied as to how cutting antenna leads could cause a power failure to the socket and the DC lines powering it. Anyone have any thoughts, similar experience, or wisdom in this area? Wiring is not my strong suit, but this seemed like it should be a quick splice and good-to-go project.

 

Fuses may look good and still not work. Check with VOM.

 

I just finished hardwiring my GPS I have a 2009 electric glide classic. I just spliced it into the extra wires coming from the headlight underneath the fairing. Power is only supply to GPS when the bike it’s on.

It definitely sounds like a fuse problem

 

My guess is that what you spliced into was in fact hot and not switched which took out a fuse other than what you are looking at. I also agree a fuse is hard to do a visual on and be sure its good. Time to have a 2nd set of eyes and service manual ready to look. Any buddies good with cars or handy around the house may help get you to the answer

 

As the saying goes, the eyes can be deceiving. Even though the PA fuse "looks" solid, a continuity test proves the circuit broken. A 5-second fuse swap and power to the socket - and thus the source wires - has been restored. I don't mind a plate of 'crow' when it means the problem is resolved. Thanks everyone for steering me past my ego and presumptions and getting me to take a closer look. Now it's back to a second, more cautious, attempt at the hardwire project.