Chged out handlebars and 2011 Ultra Limited - no power or fuel???
I changed out the handlebars to extended and now the fuel pump does not prime or come on and there is no spark. Installed wiring extensions on both handlebar wiring harnesses and throttle by-cable. All the electrical switches work (blinkers, low/high beam, horn, etc.). The battery has 13+ volts, & new FOB battery. The engine does crank over but the fuel pump does not prime or pump. I can jumper the wiring for the pump to the battery and it does pump that way. I've triple checked all the wiring, checked the continuity on each wire and all checks out to be OK. Would there be something with the security or some sensor that would cause the "no fuel and no spark issue". Been chasing on this problem since January and now that it's getting really nice riding weather I'm even more desperate to find a resolution. Any help will be greatly appreciated.a
Is your "run" switch in the run position? Not trying to be a smart ***,this come from personal experience.
You say the FOB battery is new. I've gotten dead batteries from an unopened package.
The ignition fuse supplies power – 12V to the Off/Run switch. When you turn the switch on the W/BK wire from the switch puts 12V to the start switch, 12V to an input to the ECM and TSSM to tell them the switch is in the run position and 12V to the coil of the system relay. The ECM provides the ground for the system relay coil. When the System relay coil is energized the normally open relay contacts close and 12V from the ECM fuse goes through the contacts and powers up the Fuel Pump fuse and the pump runs for 2 seconds.
Check for codes, and check you fuses first. Then pull the system relay and see if you get 12V on the W/BK when you turn ign. On and Run switch on.
All the fuses and relays checked out OK. With the ignition on and the off/run switch in the run position the engine will crank over but the3 fuel pump does not come on and there is no spark.
The System Relay has power to 3C, 3D, 4C with the ignition off and the same with the ignition on. No power to 4C (Y/GN wire).
The Start Relay has power to 3G, 3H & 4G but not 4H with the ignition off. When I switch the ignition on I lose power to 3H (R/GY) and still nothing to 4H (BK/R).
There is no power to the ECM fuse on either side 2F (BE/GY) and 2E (R).
Vernal, FYI I too just recently retired from a Natural Gas Company in Corpus Christi, TX. Now I'm ready to do some serious riding but I've got my bike all screwed up.
Well lets see if we can't get that bike running, so you can enjoy retirement a little more. We are expecting a little snow this afternoon and we need some rain to get the salt washed off the roads. Your voltage reading with Ignition off are not the way they should be so I think your Ignition switch is out of sync or you need to retake the measurements as described below.. Look at drawing 1 of 5 upper right Ignition Switch. Red is from the battery, unswitched so Radio memory, Battery, ECM and lighting relay should have 12V all the time. Switch to Ignition on and R/BK and R/GY are powered up. Turn switch to Accessory and R and R/GY have power. To check this put your negative lead on a good ground then check both sides of the fuse, unless you have a broken wire at the red to ECM fuse you should have power. Check voltage to confirm the switch is installed correctly, it common for it to be off after removal - happens pretty often. The video will help:
Hope you and yours are safe from the fire in Houston.
Bill
The ignition fuse supplies power – 12V to the Off/Run switch. When you turn the switch on the W/BK wire from the switch puts 12V to the start switch, 12V to an input to the ECM and TSSM to tell them the switch is in the run position and 12V to the coil of the system relay. The ECM provides the ground for the system relay coil. When the System relay coil is energized the normally open relay contacts close and 12V from the ECM fuse goes through the contacts and powers up the Fuel Pump fuse and the pump runs for 2 seconds.
Check for codes, and check you fuses first. Then pull the system relay and see if you get 12V on the W/BK when you turn ign. On and Run switch on.
I pulled the ignition back off and checked it in various locations but only fit back in one spot. When it is in the off position, it still powers up all the fuse connections except battery (2D & 2C), ECM (2F &2E, radio (2A & 2B). I do have power to Power Out (2G & 2H). Is this still an ignition problem? When I switch the ignition to on, all the lights, switches, blinkers, and horn works - but no fuel or spark as before.
I have one of the homemade ignition switch keys as shown on the video, but no matter where I switch it to - the ignition only fits in one way. How can I confirm when it's in the right location?
I don't know how familiar you are with electrical troubleshooting and I am doubting your measurements. No offense meant but you cannot have 0V on Radio Mem. 2A, Batt. 2C and ECM 2E they are directly wired to the battery through the main fuse, the ignition switch is not involved. (unless you did some other rewiring besides the bars?).
The main fuse is good or your lights wouldn't light.
Notice the black lead is touching ground and the red lead probes for voltage. Pull the ECM fuse and with Black on Grd touch both sides of the fuse holder, 2E should be 12V.
Here is what you should see:
Ignition off 12V on 2A, 2C and 2E
Ignition on and run switch on all fuses should have 12V
Accessory 12V on 2A,2C,2E, Brake 1A, Access. 1C, P&A 1E, Radio Power 1G, power outlet 2G .
Ignition off 12V on 2A, 2C and 2E. I still had no voltage with ignition off. Checked with ***** point on fuse and with fuses removed and inserting probe in fuse socket. Ignition on and run switch on all fuses should have 12V. I had voltage to all fuses, fuel only had voltage for the 2 seconds of purge. Accessory 12V on 2A,2C,2E, Brake 1A, Access. 1C, P&A 1E, Radio Power 1G, power outlet 2G .
I did find that I had two wires crossed on connector 22A, the white and gray wires looked the same due to fading and dirty. Once I swapped them around the fuel pump purged and the bad boy started up. Everything checks out, lighting, blinkers, horn, bright light, etc.
But I'm still concerned about why no voltage with ignition off on 2A, 2C and 2E. I didn't do any other wiring except the harness for handlebar. And disconnected the fuel tank harness so that I could remove the tank for running new brake lines.
Since it starts up and everything seems to be OK, should I have serious concerns and should I continue to chase out whatever the issue is with the - Ignition off no 12V on 2A, 2C and 2E?
03-20-2019, 09:06 PM
Chged out handlebars and 2011 Ultra Limited - no power or fuel???
