Want LEDs
#1
Want LEDs
Good morning Harley nation,
A few questions for you. I have a 2001 Electra glide classic FI. I want to change out front lighting with blacked out led lights. I do not want to over load my electrical system or find out 6 months down the road that I have been secretly melting wires without my knowledge.
My Headlight is one bulb 4.58 (low beam) 5.0 (High beam) AMP Draw. Not sure what the stock wattage is.
So I can go as many watts as I want on a new LED as long as I keep the AMP draw below or equivalent to stock?
When my high beam is on is it then drawing 5 AMPS or 9.58? Low and high beam combined?
I cannot find any information on my Spot lights next to headlights. I need to know the amp draw and current Watts.
thanks guys.
A few questions for you. I have a 2001 Electra glide classic FI. I want to change out front lighting with blacked out led lights. I do not want to over load my electrical system or find out 6 months down the road that I have been secretly melting wires without my knowledge.
My Headlight is one bulb 4.58 (low beam) 5.0 (High beam) AMP Draw. Not sure what the stock wattage is.
So I can go as many watts as I want on a new LED as long as I keep the AMP draw below or equivalent to stock?
When my high beam is on is it then drawing 5 AMPS or 9.58? Low and high beam combined?
I cannot find any information on my Spot lights next to headlights. I need to know the amp draw and current Watts.
thanks guys.
#2
Good morning Harley nation,
A few questions for you. I have a 2001 Electra glide classic FI. I want to change out front lighting with blacked out led lights. I do not want to over load my electrical system or find out 6 months down the road that I have been secretly melting wires without my knowledge.
My Headlight is one bulb 4.58 (low beam) 5.0 (High beam) AMP Draw. Not sure what the stock wattage is.
So I can go as many watts as I want on a new LED as long as I keep the AMP draw below or equivalent to stock?
When my high beam is on is it then drawing 5 AMPS or 9.58? Low and high beam combined?
I cannot find any information on my Spot lights next to headlights. I need to know the amp draw and current Watts.
thanks guys.
A few questions for you. I have a 2001 Electra glide classic FI. I want to change out front lighting with blacked out led lights. I do not want to over load my electrical system or find out 6 months down the road that I have been secretly melting wires without my knowledge.
My Headlight is one bulb 4.58 (low beam) 5.0 (High beam) AMP Draw. Not sure what the stock wattage is.
So I can go as many watts as I want on a new LED as long as I keep the AMP draw below or equivalent to stock?
When my high beam is on is it then drawing 5 AMPS or 9.58? Low and high beam combined?
I cannot find any information on my Spot lights next to headlights. I need to know the amp draw and current Watts.
thanks guys.
You can go as many watts as you want if you do not exceed the wattage of your stock lights. DUH! That is not a big help but let me try to "illuminate"
Do you know the bulb number in your headlight now? Is it a single or dual filament? Will you have one fixture with 2 bulbs or two fixtures with one bulb each?
Currently, are BOTH high and low are on when you switch to high beam or just high?
Here is a rating from Custom Dynamics for a single fixture 1.1A LOW CURRENT DRAW, 1.5A HIGH CURRENT DRAW for single fixture 7 inch headlamp the link https://www.customdynamics.com/trube...Specifications Of coures Custom Dynamics is just one vendor but use this as a guide. I love Custim Dynamics personally.
Here is a rating for some LED headlamps 2800Lms@30W on low beam;4000Lms@45W on high beam. This is one fixture only
Here is a link to convert amps to watts, I have used it extensively . Assume voltages of 12.2 (idling) and 13.8 (running/charging) http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/elec...Calculator.htm
I have dual LED headlights on my on my Fatbob. There is a seperate bulb for high and low. (X2 fixtures) My particular LED headlights draw 6.6 amps total. The original bulbs were listed by HD as the same exact amps as yours 4.58 (low beam) 5.0 (High beam)
Hope this helps
#3
#6
Hey sparkalot, thanks for passing on the link with the amps to watts calculator. I've tried LED's and perhaps if I'd payed allot more I would have found better quality and results, but I fear spending hundreds of dollars just to find I'm no happier and therefore I've just decided to stick with old school incandescent. On my earlier cars and trucks I ran 80-100 watt bulbs regularly (knowing the wiring was heavy enough) as well as a pair of the old #4537 G.E. 100 watt aircraft landing lights using either a relay or on a separate circuit and switch. On my hog years ago I replaced the stock 27 watt passing light bulbs with some 35 watt (slight blue tint) and never had a moment's trouble. I just replaced that wimpy 55-60 watt H7 headlamp with an 80-85 (again slight blue tint) for a tiny fraction of the cost of the big name LED's and they are all I'll ever need. According to the calculator you passed on to us, I have about a 21 watt margin (baring any potential power bumps) with the HD recommended 15 amp fuse. My fifty years of riding tells me to carry a spare fuse as I'm pushing the envelope now, do you think the stock wiring in my 06 elecrta would be able to withstand this load if I'm forced to go to a 20 amp fuse should the 15amp not be able to handle it? What's your thoughts?
#7
first and foremost, the fuse protects the WIRE and not the end devise. never up a fuse without wire gauge change.
if you are concerned about load or even want to run more load, use a relay that is sourced to the battery, then the system wiring only handles control power and not load. one cravat is not to over source the charge system, always leave 20% reserve capacity for proper battery charging. why? well, your system runs off the regulator output with the battery supplying short fall, you want to stay out of this area or the battery will not pull up.
if you are concerned about load or even want to run more load, use a relay that is sourced to the battery, then the system wiring only handles control power and not load. one cravat is not to over source the charge system, always leave 20% reserve capacity for proper battery charging. why? well, your system runs off the regulator output with the battery supplying short fall, you want to stay out of this area or the battery will not pull up.
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