If there is electrical resistance between the battery terminal and the inside of the cable connection where it connects to the terminal a voltage drop will occur. Depending on the current flowing (IxR=VDC) through that connection a significant voltage drop can occur, the result is that the demanded current won't be supplied to the starter and the crank will be weak or non-existent, heat will be generated. It cannot be emphasized enough that clean and tight battery connections to the starter are essential, drop a few volts and your starter is getting nowhere near what is required to crank wrt amps. The solenoid will click, but the starter will not crank.

 

If the terminal is loose at the battery, it will get hot, this is a common issue with Sportsters, especially if the cables are not connected in the sequence called for in the service manual.

The OP was not following that sequence (as evidenced in one of his posts in his other thread on this same issue).

 

Ok, got battery tested at Shucks, said it was bad. Got the replacement. Pulled - cable from case, then hooked up according to manual. As soon as I slipped the - cable back on to stud in case the starter began to turn over. The key is in off position. It turned over a couple times then stopped. I went ahead and tightened the bolt. All is fine. I turned key on, everything lights up as normal, I then turned kill switch on, hit starter button and it began cranking, but as I let up on switch, starter kept cranking for a moment. Did that twice. Then battery went dead.

PS. I am looking for service manual, closest dealer 2 hrs away

 

I think the most likely reason that the starter is cranking with the ignition switch off is a problem in the starter solenoid.

Since you have been cranking the starter with a weak battery, it may have caused the electrical contacts to weld together...

Disconnect the battery.

You can remove the end cover from the solenoid and check it out, inspect the electrical contacts, and check the plunger to make sure it is not binding.

If you do need parts for the solenoid, you can get them at any decent starter shop for a lot less money than from Harley, these parts are also available online, rebuild kits are not expensive.

The starters used on Harleys are nothing special, they are a very common automotive unit.

 

"battery went dead"

What's the voltage? I'm wondering if something's still drawing current. If so, disconnect it to preserve it while not troubleshooting.

 

Yep, disconnected it, let it trickle charge overnight. Took it in for load test. He said it was down a bit, but still showed 440 CCA, so the battery is still good

 

Starter relay may be fused as well. If I am not mistaken the high beam relay and the starter relay are the same model. You could try to swap them before you crack open the starter solenoid.

 

If it were a stuck starter relay, the starter would stop when the ignition switch is turned off, the relay is powered by a switched source.

That is why I suspect the solenoid.

 

The cables are actually a bit heavier guage than original, and same length.( Let battery rest on cover ) The buzz I was hearing is with run switch and key off. I hooked charger up to see if I still had lights and such is when I could hear it.
Bought a new battery, old one had gone bad in less than a year. Hooked up new battery, while it was resting on battery cover. Bike started right up. When I hit the kill switch, the starter was still cranking. Would this be the solenoid sticking, or something in the starter, relay?
And I agree with getting a manual, waiting for it to arrive in mail

 

Your process already ruled out the starter relay. You're at the solenoid.