I ordered the wizard lights from custom dynamics (damn, they're proud of those things, they should have a Harley logo on them for that price). Anyhow, it's kinda funny 'cos all the reviews refer to how friendly and helpful they are. I must have drawn the short straw 'cos the gal I spoke with acted like it was an inconvenience being on the phone......anyhow......

I would have asked her the question but her answers to my other questions were "I don't know", so I'll ask you guys. I have a 'spare' accessory switch on my dash so I'm wondering if there's an easy way to plug the lights into that switch for turning them on or off. I'm definitely no technician on installing this stuff so I'm referring to a 'plug and play' solution only. Not a big deal, but figured I'd ask.

 

The rep cannot give you a definitive answer to your question for a couple of reasons, first and most import is product liability and second there is no way for her to give you a definitive answer. She has no way of knowing what that switch is connect to, how it is wired, where the power source is coming from...and there are more. She can be held responsible for her answers to you and was being a responsible representative of Custom Dynamics' product by being evasive with your questions and you took it as apathy.

And, it isn't any easier to answer your question here but I don't have to worry about you screwing up your wiring system either because you misunderstood something or lack the skill and expertise to complete the job. She has to consider those things.

The simple answer is yes, you can use a spare switch to control the lights...however...

You will need to locate and identify the wiring to and from the switch. Are one or both of the switch wires terminated and not connected? If they are connected to something, is it switching a ground source or is it switching a power source. If it is switching a power source, is it fused? Can it be fused if it isn't? Do you want to use the existing wiring or just splice into it somewhere downline and terminate the existing wiring?

Not a big deal to use the switch and wiring, but there are some things to consider.

Good luck!

 

While I understand what you're saying, my previous post had nothing to do with any questions I asked her about the switch. It was strictly about the general conversation. I didn't mention names 'cos I'm not calling anybody out, everybody has a bad day sometimes. I usually preferred to order from them over the phone because the previous person was very friendly and helpful.....maybe I was just spoiled. Anyhow, that really had little to do with the post, it was just an observation after shopping from them many times. As I stated in that post, I did not ask her any questions about it and instead asked here. I did still order the lights as Custom Dynamics stands behind their stuff.........

I agree with your answer that it probably wouldn't have been an appropriate question for her for the reasons you stated. I did call today to see if they sell the switch that they mention in their online installation video and was pleased to find when they made the video it was an option. She stated that they now include it standard in the kit that I ordered.

Figured I'd leave this post up in case anybody else has the same question. Thanks for your response Skinman13

 

You were venting pretty good there...

when I got my old Super Glide, it had the Harley fog lights kit with the little rinky-dink kit switch hanging down on the left side. It also had a digital clock in a three switch housing on the left side with a space for another switch. I kept the engine guard and fog lights but I replaced the ugly switch with a new Harley accessory switch made to be mounted in the blank space. On-off is sideways instead of up-down, but it still looks much more professional.

If you have a spare switch on your bike why not use it? If you are sure it is not being used for anything, find out if it has power going to it and use it to power your lights. If it doesn't have power, check and see if all it needs is a fuse. If it does not have power or a fuse, locate and cut the two wires, splice into the wires to the switch and then insulate and stow the harness ends. I like to use heat shrink tubing to terminate unused wires...just slide it on leaving about 1/4 inch, shrink it down and then pinch the end with needlenose pliers while the shrink tubing is still hot. Works great and makes it easier to tie back into the harness than crimps or tape.

 

I would think you're still going to have to run wire from the lights to the accessory plug under your seat if you have one. Then you can use thishttp://www.harley-davidson.com/store...-11-7064108--1 or this
http://www.harley-davidson.com/store...dapter-harness

I just used the second one above and cut off wires on the plug for the ground and the "switched wire." Then I connected my wires from the lights. The other wire is hot all the time.

 

That is curious. It is always best practice to switch the positive side of any load bearing circuit down circuit of the fuse. The idea being that if the load fails and shorts to ground creating a fire hazard, the switch removes the power. Source to fuse to switch to load to ground. Usually the only time a ground is switched is if the switch is not rated for the full system current draw and a higher rated relay is used and the switch controls the relay ground.

 

I am 100% positive it isn't being used for anything. The reason is, the 2017 doesn't come with any accessory switches. You have to buy the switches as an accessory at a cost of $139 (I think, retail, I didn't pay that) for two switches. I used one for my motolights and the second switch is unused.

 

did the install today. A lot of work but it went without a hitch. I decided to use the switch that came with the kit. I had a plug for my heated gear mounted in the heat shield that is in front of the seat. I didn't care for it as it was a bit of a stretch on the cord to make it to the plug. I removed it, drilled the hole slightly bigger and put the switch there for the LED's instead (moving the plug for the heated gear where it comes out in front of the seat).

Definitely a do-it-yourself job but I'm glad I have a few tools to make it easier (forceps for pulling wires in tight spaces and auto wire strippers. Took me about 8 hours but I wasn't working on it the entire time. I can see now why they charge so much for the installs lol.

 

there are tricks to installing and maintaining wiring that take time and experience to learn. You are on the right track, gaining experience.

While I have a large inventory of expensive wiring and electronics type tools from a past career, I rarely use forceps for pulling or manipulating wire because it can really damage the wire. I was taught and learned to use different hooks, mechanics tools, dental tools and some others I make...you can make some effective wiring tools with clothes hangers and baling wire. A length of safety wire and some masking tape will allow you to pull almost any bundle through anything that it will fit without leaving a mark on the wire. The key is to tie up the bundle with lacing string or a sleeve or even masking tape wrapped around the bundle every few inches. Add some dish detergent solution and water in a spray bottle and some patience, and it will slip right on through.

 

Thanks Skinman.....I appreciate your responses throughout the thread. Yea, you're right, there are many other ways of pulling the wires. I just happened to have the forceps already and found them handy. I also had a section of plastic coated hard wire that I picked up at home depot for about a buck, in case I needed it. I did use it for one or two of the runs.

Definitely right. I am an amateur when it comes to this kind of stuff. It did turn out great though so at least I have the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself. Next job is to install the new amp and speakers. I don't expect any issue with that as it's all plug-n-play and I did the same on my '13 a few years back.