First off, I did not have my handlebars or switches off, so the tit on the front brake switch is fine.

Front brake lever has a little bit of freeplay. If I squeeze it and release, the brake light stays on. Push it away and it goes out. This is parked and not running. If the engine is running, the lever moves toward the switch and just the weight of the lever makes the brake light come on.

I do have a spare brake switch from a previous bike. Sounds like the internal spring for the brake switch is weak and the slightest touch activates it or my pivot point is worn excessively?

Not sure if master cyl is supposed to hold lever away from pin, or if pin is always in contact with lever.

Jim

 

Did a search on the Internet and read up on a few things to check.

Removed the brake lever, switch was fine. In the relaxed position I could pull back the plunger for the master cyl a touch, but it wasn't sticking. Bushing for brake lever looked good, rotated it a 1/4 turn anyway. Used some JB Weld and built up the tab on the lever that rides against the brake switch. Works fine now. Nice and easy fix.

Jim

 

Jim, well done! I have one that a small squirt of WD40 cures for a while.

 

Sounds like the master cylinder is not stuck but dragging and not returning fully . The JB weld trick will work but its a bandaid repair - cyl still dragging . Mine does the same and like was said the WD40 makes it go away for a little , when it happens a few hard fast squeezes on the lever works too . That works for me now but will take cyl apart and repair/rebuild it during the winter.

 

If the master Cyl was dragging, the brakes would be dragging, not the case

 

Hope it last. I has one going bad that overtime I messed with it, it would get better. I even took it apart and re-positioned the small leaf spring and it was working fine. Couple weeks later, on again. Guess it was just burnt and sticking. I am on my 2nd and 3 rear hydraulic one. City driving is hard on them...I put an LED in the tailight to help some. If you needed the tip longer, someone did not use a piece of cardboard to protect the rubber boot on the switch and it is torn off like the one you see in my picture. Without the boot, the first few rains will probably finish off the switch.

 

Sorry I wasn't clearer , the dragging is enough to affect the spring/piston from fully returning but not dragging enough to cause fluid pressure to drag caliper . If the dab of JBweld took up enough space to cure problem - ask where did this space come from - either part of it broke and is missing or the piston is not returning fully

 

Boot is intact

 

What you are describing is often from the return spring in the master cylinder becoming weak and worn. When you rebuild the master cylinder (super cheap, easy and fast to do) and I'd bet you'll notice the old spring is shorter than the new one, it simply became weak over time, and stopped returning to its original position.

 

Original position is 1mm further out. I can live with the JB weld making up for that difference for now.