I own a 2002 Ultra Classic fuel injected. I was having some issues with the positive cable loosening and causing the battery to die, needless to say it eventually smoked the battery. Not only did the battery take a crap, so did either the stator or voltage regulator, so I just replaced the whole system. Gel battery, new rotor, new stator, and new regulator. Well I was riding home from the local watering hole when, BANG, OUT WENT EVERYTHING!!! I managed to eventually get it started and limped home. When I got home I looked at the volt meter on the dash and knew it wasn't charging so I checked to see if the stator plug was plugged all the way into the regulator. The regulator burnt the crap outta me, so I figured it was bad and had tripped the CB. We checked the voltage the next day and nothing from the regulator, but the stator tested fine. I replaced the regulator and charged the battery and all was well. Yesterday I left the house and noticed at a red light 2 miles down the road that the idle was high, and sure enough it wasn't charging, but didn't die this time and the regulator was barely warm when I got home. Keep in mind that there was less than 300 miles on the first regulator, and about the same on this new one. I am stumped, any ideas???

 

Welcome to the H-D Forums from Idaho ! ENJOY !

 

Sorry for not introducing myself, My name is Bill, my best friend who is now my brother-in-law started calling me Brother Bill 20 years ago and it stuck. I ride a 2002 Ultra Classic, live in South Florida, been with my beautiful wife for 29 years, raised 2 kids, and am now raising our 5 year old grand daughter. Been riding since my early teens and bought my first Harley over 20 years ago and never looked back. Not knocking other bikes, I just prefer my Harleys. Just picked up a 500 Honda Shadow to fix up for the wife to learn on, she wasn't happy about the Honda thing at first, but when I explained that it's much lighter and cheaper to beat up learning on, she calmed down. I'll just be glad to get her on her own, so I can go full bagger mode on my Ultra.

 

Welcome to the Forum from Kansas!

 

Welcome Brother Bill!
Most importantly check all your cables and connections: Most of this came from 20014 manuals but it should be useful.

Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

I just had a thought, when my friend and I installed the stator and rotor, we had to use the old plug housing. The spade connectors on the 2 stator wires were labeled A and B. We had drank a few too many and it was late so we finished our case and I left, the next day I went back to finish and he had already installed the spades into the old plug housing. Is it possible that he installed them in the wrong position, or does it matter???

 

Alternator is producing AC so it shouldn't matter.
Bill