I spose I should emphasis the little part of that remark.

 

I have no illusions about my amatuer standing here and I welcome any constructive advice.

You are correct running 13.8 in the cruise area is likely wasteful and hurting my milage. I had been thinking about this since Gordon's post. I probably will thin out the cruise range.

The bike is a 2008 Fat Bob, I am running the 176AE106 map. I have english measurements selected in the setup, that is why it doesn't show kpa. I can select these individually to shw kpa.

I have been looking at the TTS manual and following the strategy for adjusting the timing. So now that I have settled on 13.8 I am pushing the timing 2 degrees ahead until I get knock, and then back off that cell, and repeat the process. Your suggestion about adding in that area of the ae table is something I hadn't considered. Guess I was focused on following the procedure as outlined. Is it realistic to continue pushing the timing ahead expecting to be able to affect most cells this way?

At some point I plan to thin the cruise area back some. Certainly I'll need to back the timing off in this area when I do.

 

I'd keep it in closed loop in the cruising ranges, let the sensors do their job. I wouldn't cruise at anything richer than 14.2.

 

When you go leaner for the cruise range, you're going to get knock since you have added timing everywhere. This is going to make your bike run hot. It's going to knock and the computer will take timing away which will kill your power.

You are expecting too much out the the AFR table adjustments and should be working on the VE tables for open loop riding.

The AFR table adjustments are only useful in closed loop and those (AFR table) only come into play at ilde and at steady throttle openings.

If you are wacking the throttle while trying to auto-tune your bike, you are defeating the system. My understanding of the TTS auto-tune is that you want fairly steady throttle openings over an average of distance for best results. I pretty sure it says to set all the tables to 14.6 for auto-tuning and go easy while in auto-tune then reset it back to the original AFR setting afterwards. I always set my idle rpm settings richer (14.3) so it does not overheat at red lights but my cruise AFR tables are at 14.6.

The base map you choose should be selected by your cam choice and closest to your build/mods you are using. Those timing profiles should not have to be adjusted very far from where they are set. Depending on what pipe you are running, etc, you may gain a little here and there but just selecting all the cells and bumping them up is not helping you. You really need a dyno tune to be messing with timing tables.

 

100% true. Until the ve tables are calibrated the rest doesn't matter.

They also come into play when your bike is under load or at wot. Instead of trying to push an o2 sensor to 14.2-3 I will just put it in open loop. Even though I can make more power with a leaner mixture at wot I will richen it back up just as a safety factor.

Smooth and steady is perfect for collecting the vtune or smartune data. Checking for knock retard though I will do 3rd and 5th gear roll ons and also wack the throttle. I also want to make sure the knock retard is repeatable, and look at all the events prior, to decide what table to use for correction.,

Again true about choosing your map based on the closest cam as the injectors are fired from the combination of the cps, map sensor and the map. Sometimes the map you may choose may have higher compression pistons and better breathing heads. The more efficient the engine the less timing it needs. I will sometimes copy and paste timing tables from map to map, but like you say this should be done on a dyno where everything can be monitered.

 

I agree, I do plan to adjust my cuise area back to Closed Loop. I'll probably take my Timing map back to the base and just try some minor tweaks there.

 

True, I plan to take my Timing table back to the base. Maybe just some minr tweaks.

I started out Smart Tuning my VE tables and only touched my AFR after I decided that my ve tables were pretty much there.

I think you mean open loop.

True about wacking the throttle. When I did my Data runs for Smart Tune I did try to be careful to be smooth rolling the throttle on and off. With Smart Tune it sets the tables up automatically when I load the calibration and check that it is for a Smart Tune. The throttle wacking was later on to try and find the areas that would knock.

The base map I selected was very close to what I have.

I was following the procedure reccomended in the TTS manual, but I am not really satisfied w/the way it is working out so as I say I will likely go back to the base timing map.

 

No, closed loop is when the O2 sensors (and the other sensors) are telling the ecm what to do.
Open loop is where your engine is operating off the VE tables.

 

If a cell in the AFR table is 14.6, then that area is controlled by the O2 sensors in closed loop. Any other values put that area in open loop and will depend on the accuracy of the VE tables to produce the desired AFR.