If I can I would like to throw a couple of questions out there.
How much does outside air temps affect the v-tunes? I worry about Tuning when 50-60 degrees then getting bike out in 100 plus temps 3k miles from home.

Not happy with the night stick and fuel moto head pipe combo. The tweeks I have done seem to help decel pop but the pop seems random but always some pop on decel and once and a while on acel.

Today I am doing new exhaust gaskets and make sure NO leaks and putting stock muffler on.
The bike is a 2010 street glide SE A/C. fuelmoto 2-1 head pipe stock muffler.
I was trying to use base map. CTB009-01 With the nightstick muffler. I am thinking that map. CTA009-01 may be a much better option. Any input on base map is appreciated.
I dont know what I want on exhaust I am just waiting until I hear and see what I like. My tune efforts at the moment are just learning. I have some stuff on order cams etc. so we just have a decent day to play with and learn the tuning some more and get a little ride in.

 

Thanks SAM2010. I may check them out once I have finished my tuning. One can always go back to your own setting if they do not work out.

 

I did not see much of a change in VE's...in fact, less then 2% in most cells when comparing v-tunes at 85 degrees and 55 degrees.

But I do change a few things like warm-up tables for cold weather riding and thus keep maps for the "extremes" we see here in the southeast.

You results may be different...hope that helps!

 

In generate vtune it says expand the form and hit the print button.
My question is does that save a screen shot on my computer or
do i have to hook up printer first ?



Thanks for the help!! Willie

P.S. Hope this is the right place to post Question

 

If you don't want to hook up a printer you can install something like Cute PDF, http://www.cutepdf.com/, and print to PDF file.

 

I tuned with the mastertune bike runs well but the plugs are burning white. Seems lean by looking at the plugs. It has been tuned by the canned base map which has the O2 Voltage set to 486. Called customer support and they said to it was fine to tune leaving this at the voltage and that would set it to approx 14.7 . Any suggestions would be appreiciated., I tuned with 3 good runs .

 

How many miles do you have on your tune for you to be able to check your plug color? The way your post reads you just did your tunes.

486 is lean for your 2010 with the modifications in your signature for either bike, suggest 684 across the board unless you have made other modifications.

Issue with changing CLB's now is you will have to do more VTuning as the CLB's will change the VE areas. Also, it takes more than 3 good runs for you to complete your VTune. You will also need a data scan and check for knock retard which could also be fuel related, not timing. This is normally in the 90 to 100 kPa areas during WOT.

OK, sorry to ramble....

 

Thanks for Rambling , I need as much info as I can get. I rode it for 500 miles after the tune before pulling the plugs. When I called Tech support I was told not to go over 635 with the tables becasue the O2 Sensors would change in time and not be able to bring the Fuel mixture to the desired level. i was also told that tuning with the original setting was fine as long as the bike ran well... (it does) I will make the changes to the tables and re-tune. thanks for the tip not sure how to the data scan for knock, can you help? I didn;t tune the Crossbones yet. Just the Heritage.

Thanks Again.

 

Customer Support?? Is that TTS customer support? Really doesn't sound like something they would say... Any CLB Value over 450 will create an offset to the AFR table and assume you have corrected your VE tables so the proper calculation even can take place. This is why you must VTune after changing CLB's.

The stock CLB value is fine but if you feel the need to increase them (I always do) then just don't go over 780 or the sensors will degrade faster. it's not like they will burn up over night. You will easily get 20,000 miles or more out of your 02 sensors with your build. I find the 684 to be a good average for performance and fuel economy.

Data Scan is as easy as doing a VTune run. You just look at the scan data for knock retard front and rear. Turn off all other graph data so it is easy to see. I understand this sounds cryptic but once you open a scan data run you will see what I am talking about.

Look at the attachment, do you see the peaks? Those are knock retard hits. Look at the bottom right, do you see how I set up the graph? Just left click on the value and change it to knock retard and the others to none. Put your mouse over the peaks and you will see the RPM and kPa values.

 

I'm having an issue with the TTS tuner, after doing some major work to my engine that included, 106 S&S kit, t-man stage 2 head work, t-man 625 cam, throttle body redone to 54mm by HPI, exhaust system, zipper a/c,

I'm not able to find anyone who can tune the bike right, I keep getting error codes like O2 sensors and bike running rich, and some misfiring, bike has been tune a couple of times already

i have taken the bike to 3 places and they all have told me that the tuner is inadequate for the mods i'm running.

since i'm not an expert i would like to hear any suggestions as to the validity of this

thanks for any help.